“Garmin is a world leader in the health and fitness industry, and we are excited to bring our advanced sensor data and technology to the equine market with the introduction of Blaze,” Susan Lyman, Garmin Vice President of Consumer Sales and Marketing says. “Whether you’re eventing, racing, jumping or anything in between, this new system will help you monitor your horse’s health to keep them performing at their best.”

Innovative Design

The Blaze system starts with a removable, rechargeable sensor the size of a half-dollar, placed in a durable, washable neoprene wrap that can be adjusted for a perfect fit. The wrap securely holds the sensor to the skin on the underside of the horse’s tail, without irritating the horse or requiring any skin preparation.

The sensor’s battery life is up to 25 hours, and the wrap can be worn for up 10 hours continuously.

Easily paired with the Blaze Connect IQ app on your Garmin smartwatch or the Blaze app on your phone, you’ll sync your devices and instantly access a treasure trove of information about your horse, gathered and updated in real time. You can share your live stats with your trainer or friends in spectator mode. One sensor and wrap can be used on multiple horses, as you can create profiles for each one and easily select the right equine in the app.

Valuable Data

Choose from the following activities to track in the app: Ride, Recovery and Transport. While riding, you can track your horse’s heart rate, strides, gait, distance, skin temperature and changes to that temperature, and much more. You can also see the heat score in your area to determine if it’s safe to ride in current conditions. You can track your horse’s recovery as his heart rate changes, and that can be tracked while riding and in separate sessions for low-intensity wellness monitoring.

The Blaze can be used during transport to monitor your horse’s stress levels and comfort in the trailer, all conveniently accessed on your Garmin device or phone app.

After logging activity, you can view all of your data right in the app on your phone, and can easily toggle between horses.

Garmin-Backed

Blaze comes from a long line of Garmin products designed to help humans get greater enjoyment out of activities they already love. From aviation, marine and automobile navigation devices, to wearables for hiking, biking, running, swimming and other sports, Garmin has produced accurate tools that are proven to be durable in harsh conditions. Founded over 35 years ago, Garmin’s headquarters is located in Olathe, Kan., with offices worldwide.

Blaze was also tested by independent researchers at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, compared against medical-grade ECG systems. Over 100 tail wrap variations were evaluated, and it was tested at a Thoroughbred training center with more than 100 horses each day.

While developing Blaze, the device was tested in a wide variety of methods to make sure it’s both accurate and durable, holding up to impact, horse sweat, heat, cold and more.

The Blaze Equine Wellness System with tail wrap and sensor is priced at $599.99 and is available at Garmin.com.

This article about Garmin’s Blaze Equine Wellness System is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Garmin’s Blaze Equine Wellness System: Blazing Trails appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Horse Lover From Birth

Lily grew up in Tulsa, Okla., a third-generation horse girl thanks to a grandmother and mother who rode. Her mother had a string of retired Quarter Horses that she used to show in breed shows.

“I was ‘born with the defective gene,’ as my dad would say,” Lily says with a laugh. “Even before I could walk, I was on horses with my mom, but it wasn’t until I was about 8 or 9 that I started to take formal riding lessons and got competitive with it.”

Lily started her riding journey with dressage throughout her youth and junior years. She showed hunter/jumpers on her university’s Intercollegiate Horse Shows Association team. She ended up falling in love with the hunters, and that has fueled her continued passion for horses.

The Accident

Lily was adventurous as a teen—a little too adventurous, she might say. At the age of 14, she was in an ATV accident that required her to be life-flighted to the hospital.

“My arm was amputated on the spot, so it wasn’t that I had amputation surgery—it was a stitch-her-up surgery,” Lily recalls. “My mom met me at the hospital, and as any mother would be, she was freaking out and sobbing. But the first thing I said to her as I was being wheeled into surgery was, ‘I guess I’m going to have to do western pleasure now.’ But the surgeon came in—who I had not yet met at this point—yelling, ‘Over my dead body will you sit on a western horse.’”

The surgeon just so happened to be a Hanoverian warmblood breeder and dressage rider. Lily credits her encouragement to continue riding horses as playing a key role in her healing.

“I would say 99 percent of doctors would’ve told me I was not allowed to get on a horse for at least six months after this hugely traumatic injury,” Lily says. “My doctor told me, ‘Whenever you feel ready, get on a horse.’ And so, a week after I was out of the hospital, I was on a horse again.”

Back in the Saddle

Lily found being around horses to be therapeutic and helped give her a positive outlook on life after her injury.

“Having something to work toward and a goal to achieve really helped my recovery,” she says.

Lily’s recovery was faced with two infections, and she says it took her about nine months to find an equilibrium in the saddle and re-learn how to use her body to effectively cue her horse. She leaned on her first horse—a half-draft pony named Prince—during that time.

“He was pony-ish, and he could be a little devil sometimes,” Lily says. “But after my accident, his attitude changed 100 percent. He knew that I was delicate and fragile, and he took incredibly good care of me, never putting a foot wrong.”

She says losing her arm helped change her perspective on riding, inviting creativity into her process, and causing her to be a more open-minded rider.

“There’s more than one way to accomplish something; riding can be effective no matter how it looks,” Lily says.

Highs and Lows

When thinking about the moments in her life that have meant the most to her, Lily says participating in the very first para show jumping demonstration at the Land Rover Kentucky Three-Day Event four years ago was one of them.

But so was competing in her first horse show after losing her arm, which was one year after the accident.

“It was a pretty monumental moment, but honestly, every single day feels like another success,” Lily says. “Even though I lost my arm nine years ago, I feel like I learn something new every day. I discover a little bit more about my body, a little more about what I can do rather than what I can’t do. Every ride has been a highlight, because I can’t take any ride for granted. I didn’t know I would get this far.”

Overcoming the balance and aid issues around having one arm has been her greatest challenge. But more than that, avoiding comparison to other riders’ experience as a youth were additional layers to her growing as a horsewoman.

“The biggest obstacle I’ve overcome is learning that everybody is on a different journey, so it doesn’t matter how old you are, what you’re doing, or how you’re doing it. As long as it makes you happy, that’s all you can ask for.”

Family and Career

In college, Lily studied business administration at the University of Lynchburg in Virginia with a minor in digital marketing and graduated in December 2022. Today, the 23-year-old runs her own business doing social media management and content creation specifically for equestrian brands.

Lily recently married to her husband, Andrew Voss. Andrew is not a horse person, but he’s very supportive of her passion.

She makes social media content about her life as a creative outlet.

“I like to share my journey because I think it’s important to showcase that riding has its ups and downs,” Lily says. “It flows, and riding isn’t a one-size-fits-all situation. I also choose to share a little bit more of my day-to-day life. [I like] sharing how you can have a very full life, even if you have a disability—it doesn’t have to limit you in any way.”

Horses and the Life

Her para-dressage horse, Charlie, has now been commandeered by her mom. Lily is in between horses at the moment and rides her trainer’s horses at a local barn while she’s horse shopping. She hopes to re-enter the show ring with a new mount, and plans to make the switch to show jumping from hunter classes.

Whatever she does with horses, Lily lives by a philosophy honed by her past and current experiences.

“No matter what life throws at you, you can always overcome it, however scary things get,” she says. “There’s always a light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it takes a week, sometimes it takes a year, sometimes it takes 10 years. But it always gets better, and sometimes works out better.”

You can follow Lily on Instagram at @lilybvoss.

This article about Lily Voss appeared in the July 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Meet Lily Voss: An Inspiring Equestrian appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The Goal of Softness

Softness starts with your horse’s mouth and chin, through his neck, rib cage, and hindquarters—his whole body. Some riders confuse softness with achieving a “headset,” where the horse holds its head in the desired position.

“It’s beyond headset—it’s more a willing behavior to do the task you’re asking for,” says Baldus. “Some horses naturally have a neck that comes out a little bit lower, [and] they’re comfortable being lower-headed due to their style or their pedigree. Other horses with a different pedigree or style might carry their head a little bit higher and have a higher-headed look. That doesn’t mean that the horse is stiffer, it just means that he has conformation that puts his head higher.”

A horse with higher-headed conformation can still be soft with his head and neck, according to Baldus. This type of horse can still be flexed at the poll, willingly guided and soft—just with his head coming out of his neck a bit higher.

If a horse is high-headed and tense, he might be anxious or protecting himself from reins that are pulled on too firmly.

“When a horse has his head way up and his neck tight, his shoulders are heavy and he’s hitting the ground hard while he moves,” says Baldus. “His whole body is stiff, rigid and tight.”

In contrast, a soft horse has a lightness of step and movement regardless of gait or maneuver.

“He’s going to have a soft and light step, and that’s going to help the horse move better,” he says. “And that’s true whether working a cow, on the trail, just riding down the road, or riding for pleasure around your ranch. A horse that is lighter and moves with more fluidity is going to be smoother and softer to ride.”

Preparation

The bit you choose to use while working on softness with your horse is important. Baldus says that when he’s first starting to train a horse—usually in the first 30 days of riding—he’ll use a loping hackamore to work on lateral softness. He will next put the horse in some variation of a snaffle bit.

“As I transition to a snaffle, some horses are very light and soft and go in a smooth O-ring,” he says. “Others need a bit more, maybe a little twist to the mouthpiece, or even a short shank bridle to help him understand how to soften to the bridle.”

No matter what bit you use, your hands are the most important piece of the puzzle.

Move Slow and Soft

Baldus says the way you ask your horse to move is key.

“Every day when I get on, every ride, I remind myself to slow my hands down and ask [for a response] as slow and soft as possible,” he says.

This starts with asking the horse to tip his nose to the right, for example. You’ll do this every time you ride after your horse has warmed up.

“I ask myself how slowly and how smoothly I can pick this rein up and ask this horse to tip his nose to the right,” says Baldus. “If I ask slowly and methodically, in a sequence of half a pound of pressure, 1 pound of pressure, 2 pounds, 3 pounds, and so on over a 10-second time period, that horse has a chance to respond to a soft, light pressure before I increase to more pressure. By building the habit of keeping your hand slow, the horse will start to respond to 1 or 2 pounds.”

Build this habit into everything you do with your hands and legs while riding—whether you have on a loping hackamore or a spade bit on a finished bridle horse. Focus on keeping your hands as slow and consistent as possible.

The Release of Pressure

You’ll also want to focus on the release of pressure.

“Your horse is going to learn the most from the release of pressure,” says Baldus. “The moment he starts to soften in the direction I want with his head, neck or shoulders, I start to release the pressure.”

Look for a place to reward your horse, even just for trying, then pick up and ask again. He will probably get softer faster, according to Baldus.

The Sequence of Achieving Softness

Working from the front to the back of the horse, Baldus asks for softness.

“I start with his nose, and I’m just bending his nose laterally, let’s say with my left hand,” he says. “I’m tipping my left hand toward my left pocket and asking the horse to give his nose to the left.”

Baldus notes that he’s not clucking or using his legs for this step—he’s asking the horse to stand still and stay relaxed, flexing his nose toward the rein cue.

“Once he stands still and gives his nose to the left, then I release that pressure,” he says. “Then I will pick up the rein and ask again in another 10 seconds.”

Your horse is not going to respond perfectly right away—you’re looking for small steps, building habits that will stay with the horse. Baldus says it may take a horse two weeks to understand if he’s never done it before.

Vertical Flexion

The drills Baldus uses most often are asking for lateral bend and flexion, asking the horse to soften to the left and right, and then adding forward motion as he asks for a slight vertical flexion. At this point, he’s using his legs as an additional cue.

“When I’ve got the horse going at a walk, I just tip his nose to the left and to the right as we’re progressing into vertical flexion,” he says. “I’m asking the nose to move toward his chest and soften at the poll; I’m using my legs to squeeze and tell him to keep going forward. That’s the difference between your reins being a ‘whoa and stop’ cue and your reins being a ‘soften and flex at the poll’ cue.”

The moment you feel flexion or softening in the horse’s poll, release your reins—Baldus says this is a “micro release” of half an inch as a reward. Your horse may push his nose back out, and that’s OK.

“You’re just going to pick him up again and say, ‘Hey, let’s not root our nose out; when I pick my hands up, flex at the poll and soften your chin toward your chest,’” Baldus explains. “When [the horse complies], I start to release my hands again. I’m teaching him to look for the release of pressure, and he’ll find it by flexing at the poll and lowering his neck a little bit.”

Baldus works on these moves at a walk, and once the horse is solid, he’ll move to a trot, and eventually a lope and gallop on a finished horse.

Body Softness

Baldus teaches the horse to shoulder-yield next while walking in a circle. Traveling to the left, he’ll close his left leg from his calf to his heel right behind the front cinch to teach the horse to move away from pressure.

“His head and neck stay the same, and his body stays on the same arc of the 10-foot-circle, but now I’m teaching him to cross his left front leg over his right front leg as he makes the shoulder move,” says Baldus. “This helps when a horse drops his shoulder to the inside. The more control you’re going to have over the circle, the more you can control your horse’s feet and softness, and the better his patterns are going to be.”

Baldus will also ask the horse to step his hindquarters to the outside of a circle, almost like a forehand pivot, where the hind end is moving around the front end.

Once the front end and back end can be moved in response to your cues, you’ll move on to the sidepass, where you ask the horse to move his front and hind end laterally at the same time.

“Think about that softness in your horse’s head, neck and shoulders, all the way through his body to his hindquarters,” Baldus explains.

These skills translate to maneuvers such as opening and closing a gate, or sidepassing to pick up a slicker off of a fence in a trail class.

“The sidepass is another way to gain body control and softness through your horse’s body with a single maneuver to focus on,” says Baldus.

Key Takeaway

Remember, if your horse is stiff and heavy on his feet, he did not get there overnight. It may take six months for a horse to become softer and lighter, and that’s OK.

“You’re always going to ask as softly as possible and release the pressure the first chance you get,” says Baldus. “Those habits are going to build, and your horse is going to learn to carry himself in a way that’s flexed at the poll and willing and soft through his body. Then you’re going to be more comfortable on a trail ride. You’re going to have more fun, whether it’s in the show pen, working a cow, or on the barrels, because your horse is a softer, more willing partner.”

Meet the Trainer Ben Baldus has been training and showing horses since he was 12 years old. He trains horses for reining, reined cow horse, and ranch versatility, and has earned championship titles at major events with the National Reining Horse Association, National Reined Cow Horse Association, Ranch Horse Association of America, and American Quarter Horse Association. He and his wife, Cameron, operate Baldus Horsemanship in Gainesville, Texas.

Further Reading
◆ Brush Up on Your Riding Aids
◆ Achieve the Correct Timing of Riding Aids
◆ Common Horse Training Mistakes

This article about training your horse for softness appeared in the June 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Your Horse’s Softness appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Sabrina has spent her life championing representation, both in the horse world and on the pageant stage. As 2023-2024’s Miss California, she’s building an equine therapy program at Oakland City Stables while completing a graduate degree. It’s clear this beauty queen is just getting started.

Sabrina’s Equestrian Background

Sabrina does not come from a horse-centric family, and says equestrian is not a typical hobby for the African American community in Georgia, where she grew up. But Sabrina’s neighbor Irina was from Russia, and she kept her horses at a nearby stable. Through her, Sabrina was introduced to horses at age 5.

“After school, she picked me and her kids up from school, and other neighborhood kids, and brought us to the barn after school,” Sabrina says. “It’s funny, because she loved dressage, and her kids weren’t all that into it, but she taught me all she could on her horse. When she realized I was very into it, she encouraged my parents to enroll me in more formal lessons at the local riding school in Georgia.”

Feeling a friendship with horses, Sabrina was head-over-heels—and still is today.

“I’ve always loved all animals, and I was just drawn to horses—I think they’re beautiful, majestic creatures,” Sabrina says.

Show jumping became Sabrina’s equine sport of choice.

“I think I wanted more of a challenge than dressage, and I liked jumping over things,” Sabrina says. “After I’d gotten the basics of riding on the flat down, and caring for horses and grooming, I started jumping, and I loved it. I felt like I was flying. You can go fast around the jumps or go slower, and jump higher. It’s a rush, and it’s super exhilarating.”

Continuing with riding lessons, Sabrina competed on an Interscholastic Equestrian Association (IEA) team in high school, eventually becoming captain of the team. She credits her coach, Tracy Nininger, with furthering her horsemanship education. Nininger now teaches at Ardmore Equestrian Center in Fincastle, Va.

“That experience with IEA competition and training with Tracy prepared me for the transition to going to the collegiate level with the IHSA (Intercollegiate Horse Show Association),” Sabrina says.

Journey in Education

Sabrina graduated high school with a 4.0 and a resume full of Advanced Placement classes and extracurriculars, such as volleyball and track, along with equestrian. Based on academics, she narrowed her choices of college to two on the West Coast: Stanford University and the University of California, Berkeley.

“I wanted to go to a prestigious school that would challenge me academically,” Sabrina says. “I got into Berkeley, and I visited the campus and fell in love. Eighteen-year-olds don’t really think things through. I didn’t know anybody, but I figured it would be fine. So I just packed my stuff up and left for this big adventure across the country.”

Sabrina joined the IHSA team at UC Berkeley and worked her way up to becoming team captain, as well as becoming a regional-level finalist.

Sabrina went back to Georgia in the spring of 2020, her senior year, due to university protocols for the pandemic. After graduating with a degree in business administration and a minor in Spanish literature, she began pursuing her master’s degree in public administration with a specialization in nonprofits at the University of Georgia. Her schooling is online, however, so she’s back living in Los Angeles, Calif.

Pageants and Volunteer Work

Sabrina has also been competing in beauty pageants at the highest levels, and her community service initiative highlights her nonprofit work in equine therapy.

“When I competed for Miss USA in 2021, and for Miss America in 2023, my community service platform has always been equine therapy,” Sabrina says. “My end goal is to run my own therapeutic center as a nonprofit, with me as the executive director.”

Since 2012, Sabrina has volunteered with several equine therapy programs serving veterans, first responders, inner-city children, and people with disabilities. She currently volunteers as the Director of Fundraising for the Metropolitan Equestrian Preservation Society. She works on social media marketing, paperwork, funding, and grant writing.

Sabrina has also worked with the Compton Junior Equestrians in Compton, Calif. In 2024, she volunteered with the Happy Hooves nonprofit in the East Bay area of Northern California.

“I just want to make equine therapy more accessible,” she says. “I never would’ve known how much I’d love horses, or wanted to go pro and go to competitions, if no one had introduced me to them. If I didn’t have that next door neighbor, my life would look very different. So when I get to interact with kids and they tell me it’s their first time petting or riding a horse, that’s so special to me.”

With Happy Hooves, Sabrina helps bring Miniature Horses to places like children’s hospitals, where kids can interact with them and be introduced to equine therapy.

“The work and the possibilities really are endless,” she says.

Chasing Dreams

Sabrina did not grow up competing in pageants. But in high school, her Spanish teacher, Paige Galt, Ed.D., thought Sabrina would make a good role model for younger students because she was involved in school, was a multi-sport athlete, and participated in community service organizations.

“She thought that would be a great platform to do pageants, especially since being an equestrian was unique,” Sabrina says. “She recommended that I go to her pageant coach, Kim Vaughn, in Atlanta. And the rest is history.”

Sabrina competed in teen pageants throughout college. Her senior year, she tried for Miss California USA. She didn’t win the first time, but the second time, she was crowned with the title.

Many little girls dream of becoming Miss USA or Miss America someday. But for Sabrina, while pursuing these titles, she’s shared her own dreams of competing in Olympic equestrian events.

“For Miss America, my talent is ‘Her Story,’ a monologue that I wrote myself,” she says. “I talk about being an equestrian and wanting to compete at the highest level, maybe trying out for the Olympic team in 2028. It’s going to be in Los Angeles, California.”

Sabrina has a unique opportunity in her role as Miss California. Choosing equestrian as a talent for national pageant competition is highly unusual. And Sabrina is only the third Black woman to receive the title of Miss California; the last Black woman to win was 25 years ago.

A Place for Athletes & Animal Lovers

“I’m hoping to break barriers in a lot of different facets,” she says. “I’m being authentic to myself, wearing my naturally curly hair, and not pretending to be someone I’m not. I’ve had people say, ‘Why don’t you just learn to dance or sing something for your talent?’ I have to politely say no. That’s not me. I’m not a singer, I’m not a dancer; I’m an athlete. The thing that is most authentic and true to me is my passion for horses and how much I love animals. So that’s what I want to bring to Miss America.”

A little girl told Sabrina once that she didn’t think she could be Miss California because she didn’t sing or dance and she wasn’t a performer. But seeing Sabrina wear that crown opens doors for girls like her.

“It’s nice to hold space with Her Story, saying you can be an athlete, you can be an animal lover, you can be unique, and you can still be successful,” she says. “That’s very important to me. No matter what your skin color, no matter what you’re interested in, I think it’s important. It’s hard to fathom accomplishing something if you’ve never seen someone else do it.”

What’s Next

Being both an equestrian and Miss California has intertwined in surprising ways, according to Sabrina. As Miss California, she’s encouraged to connect with her community at the state and especially the local level. Del Mar Thoroughbred Club in Del Mar, Calif., hosted Sabrina’s Miss America sendoff party, and named one of the races at the track the Miss California Invitational.

Sabrina competed at Miss America in January 2024, and although she didn’t win the title, she completed her reign as Miss California. Now, she hopes to compete at the professional level in equestrian competition, with Olympic-level dreams.

In January 2023, Sabrina placed second in her division at the World Equestrian Center in Ocala, Fla. For 2024, she’s looking to get a horse sponsored and move up to a higher jumping division.

“I want to keep competing to the highest level and to the best of my ability,” she says.

Her mom, Sylvia Allen Lewis, says Sabrina’s devotion to horses and pageants have shaped her character. She and Sabrina’s dad, Richard, are proud of the path she’s pursuing.

“I think the whole experience, from the very beginning, has taught her compassion and patience with herself and with people and with animals,” says Sylvia. “She’s intuitive with animals, and with the pageants, she just gives away her knowledge so freely. She has a sweet spirit, and a strong work ethic. She’s always willing to help people.”

When asked what guidance she’s taken to heart over the years, Sabrina says the best advice came from her parents.

“They tell me to never let anyone tell me I can’t do something,” she says. “They’ve always encouraged me to dream big and follow my dreams, and I’m very grateful for that.”

If you’re interested in supporting or learning more about Sabrina’s journey, reach out via Instagram @bribrisweet.

This article about Sabrina Lewis appeared in the April 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Sabrina Lewis and Her Crowning Achievements appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

This is particularly important should you bring your horse home for retirement, versus keeping him at a boarding stable. We’ve gathered advice from a veterinarian and an equine retirement facility manager for tips to help you keep your elderly equine healthy, happy and comfortable in his twilight years.

What is Considered a “Senior Horse”?

In general, the bigger your horse, the sooner he’ll reach senior status, according to Julie Wilson, DVM, of Turner Wilson Equine Consulting in Minnesota and past president of the Equitarian Initiative, which provides philanthropic veterinary care for the working horses of the developing world. A horse can live to be in their 30s, but they’re considered senior at around age 20.

“Ponies don’t seem to become senior until they’re in their early 20s,” says Wilson. “Whereas some of the bigger horses I think are in that senior category as they get into their late teens.”

A horse’s riding career can also determine how quickly they age. A horse who had a strenuous job with many hours of riding can show musculoskeletal signs of age sooner than a horse ridden more moderately.

Deanna Chamberlin co-founded Shadowcreek Equine Retirement Ranch in Sanger, Texas, in 2011 along with her husband. The 73-acre facility only takes horses over age 20, providing end-of-life care for around 11 horses that are no longer being ridden.

“When a horse has reached 25 or 26, you’re not really trying to get them to perform at what they’ve enjoyed doing in their life—you’re starting to move into the mindset of just allowing them to be what they are, and making sure they’re comfortable,” says Chamberlin. “You’re medicating them for conditions that need intervention for stability or comfort, but you’re no longer trying to build them up.”

Age-Related Concerns

Much like humans as we age, horses experience a gradual deterioration of their bodily systems, according to Wilson.

The main issues that contribute to the eventual end-of-life decisions are related to your horse’s musculoskeletal system. Arthritis is often the sign that appears soonest.

“Arthritis, in particular, can reach the point where it’s hard to manage to make the horse comfortable,” says Wilson. “Joint injections or phenylbutazone [bute] get to where they aren’t worthwhile anymore.” Although other medications and supplements are available, this is the time when many horse owners may want to begin considering end-of-life decisions.

Endocrine issues, such as Cushing’s disease and equine metabolic syndrome, can necessitate retirement from riding or even euthanasia if you’re no longer able to effectively manage the symptoms.

Your horse’s immune system can become less capable, especially if your horse also has a disease like Cushing’s, says Wilson. This can lead to your horse contracting infectious diseases and viruses more easily, such as strangles, herpes or encephalitis—even if he’s vaccinated.

Dental issues can contribute to less efficient consumption of nutrients, injuries, and other problems. Luckily, good dental care and an appropriate senior diet can reduce these complications. Your senior horse may also pass more whole grains into his manure, so switching to a senior feed can help him maintain his weight by providing more readily available nutrients.

Digestive issues like fecal water syndrome can dehydrate your senior horse and cause other problems, according to Wilson.

“Sometimes these senior horses start to have a lot of water passed along with their manure, which may or may not start to soften, and it makes a mess of their hindquarters because it drips down the back of their legs,” she says. “This creates a management issue trying to keep them clean.”

Colic is a concern in older horses, especially when it’s a result of fatty tumors, such as lipomas.

“If an old horse presents with colic, fatty tumors would be higher on the list of causes than if they were younger,” says Wilson.

A loss of muscle tone and body structure also occurs. This can mean changes in the way your saddle fits, and Chamberlin says this change in appearance can be disconcerting to owners.

“Part of the natural decline in a body is that it tends to not be as muscular, showing more ribs,” she says. “You’re not going to see the same body structure as you would on a 10-year-old. You want to make sure your horse has everything but let him evolve as his body needs to.”

Care and Management of the Senior Horse

A senior horse needs conscientious care to enjoy his best retirement years, according to Wilson. Here are some ways to best care for your elderly partner.

Routine Medical Care for the Senior Horse

Don’t simply turn your horse out to pasture and forget about him, she says.

“Yearly exams are still really important, and you need to have an increased awareness that these issues are likely to crop up,” says Wilson. “[Senior horses] still need to be vaccinated and dewormed.”

Consider your horse’s lifestyle. Will he be around horses going to shows, or ever-rotating boarded horses? That may mean he needs to receive the full slate of recommended vaccines. But if he’s in a pasture where he doesn’t contact horses who travel, he may not.

“We may want to review [a senior horse’s] vaccination schedule and drop some of the ones for diseases he’s unlikely to get exposed to,” she says.

Deworming is still very important, even if your horse lives a relatively isolated lifestyle, according to Wilson.

“Particularly as their immune systems wane, deworming still needs to happen,” she says. “The usual advice of monitoring fecal egg counts and pasture management for parasites are all important.”

Your horse’s teeth need to be checked at least annually, and sometimes twice a year, says Wilson.

“They will begin to lose teeth and have uneven wear,” she says. “One of the more common issues in this age group is equine odontoclastic tooth resorption and hypercementosis [EOTRH], a disease that primarily affects the incisors, and some pretty drastic care may be needed.”

Check Saddle Fit

If your horse is still being ridden, you need to pay careful attention to the way the saddle fits.

“Some [senior horses] will get swaybacked, and then they really need some attention to saddle fit,” Wilson says.

Pay Attention to Herd Dynamics

When a horse is elderly, you don’t want him to have to fight for hierarchy in the herd out in the pasture, according to Chamberlin.

“You don’t want him to be with 10- and 12-year-old horses that are trying to prove themselves or move the herd around,” she says. “You want him to be with other horses similar in age, who fit well together temperament-wise.”

Adjust Your Senior Horse’s Diet

When your horse stops working due to retirement, you’ll want to adjust his diet, since his caloric needs will go down.

“That may mean dialing back on the amount of grain or concentrate he’s getting,” says Wilson. “Most of the time, he’ll still need that hay or grazing to maintain his body weight.”

If you do reduce or eliminate concentrate, consider adding a ration balancer to make sure your equine senior is getting enough protein, vitamins and minerals. Wilson says not making these adjustments can contribute to the horse becoming overweight and possible metabolic syndrome.

However, keeping weight on an older horse is often the bigger challenge. You don’t automatically need to switch to a senior diet, but it can be helpful in some situations.

“Watch [your senior’s] weight carefully, and depending on how well he’s eating, you can decide if you need to add an equine senior concentrate and still want to feed hay,” Julie says. “If he’s really not handling hay well anymore due to dental problems or bad absorption in the gut, you might consider putting him completely on senior feed [one containing fiber and meant to be fed as a complete diet] or a forage that is easier to eat, such as soaked hay cubes.”

Watch for Health Concerns

If your horse starts showing signs of Cushing’s disease, such as late shedding and a shaggy hair coat, of course you’ll have your vet test for the disease. But Wilson says that your horse’s veterinarian may recommend testing senior horses more routinely to get a jump on it.

“It is manageable with treatment,” she says.

You’ll also want to visually check your horse’s body regularly for issues such as melanomas and tumors, particularly on gray horses. Horses with white markings on their face and/or sheath may develop scabby areas that progress to squamous cell carcinoma, which warrants treatment as soon as possible.

Back to Nature

Your horse may enjoy going barefoot, although he should still get regular trims. Most will acclimate to being outdoors with appropriate shelter in all but the most extreme weather, according to Chamberlin. This allows for movement, which helps circulation, stiff joints and muscles.

“We want [our senior horses] to be out as much as possible—[preferably] 24/7, unless it’s really inclement weather,” Chamberlin says. “We bring in horses when there’s ice on the ground because we don’t want them slipping and falling. But for most of the year, they’re out a lot.”

Pasture shelters should be provided, and blanketing during turnout may be essential in northern states with freezing weather.

When the Time Comes

Ultimately, all horses will reach the end of their lives—often sooner than we’d like. Chamberlin recommends looking for a place to keep your horse where he won’t need to be moved much as he ages.

“By the time a horse is in his mid to late 20s, trailering around a lot and moving him can be a concern,” she says. “It’s hard on a horse. You need to find a place where you’ll be OK with him staying until the end.”

Before your horse’s final day is upon you, Wilson recommends planning with your vet ahead of time for euthanasia and/or disposal of your horse’s body. Laws in your area may prevent burial on your property, so you need to research what options are available.

Chamberlin says having a support person can help you figure out when you need to make the final decision about your horse’s care.

“You don’t ever want him to suffer, but you want him to live a life as full as possible,” she says. “For some people, that end is a little easier to see than others. I always encourage people to have another person that can look at your horse and say, ‘I think it may be time.’ Don’t be afraid of that, because modern veterinary care at the end of life really does provide a merciful way to say goodbye. It can be scary, but at the same time, it’s such a gift that we can make things comfortable for an animal so it’s not a traumatic end.”

Key Takeaway

After everything they’ve given us, older horses deserve some extra TLC in their golden days. While senior horses may require extra care and attention to detail, it is well worth watching them continue to thrive.

This article about senior horse care appeared in the October 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Here to help tamp down your horse’s jig, American Paint Horse Association and American Quarter Horse Association Professional Sandy Jirkovsky shares her advice.

Why Does My Horse Get Antsy?

There are several reasons why horses don’t settle while working a pattern and get antsy, and some of them are rider-related.

Rider tension: “If a horse can feel a fly on their skin, they can feel you tensing up,” says Jirkovsky. “Whether you tense up through your seat, through your legs, or even in your mind, they feel that, and the first thing they go back to is their natural instinct of flight because they feel apprehension on their back.”

Over-practicing: Repetition is helpful for riders wanting to learn their pattern, but it’s not so good for a broke horse, says Jirkovsky. Completing entire patterns during practice can backfire when you go show.

“The horse learns the pattern faster than you do, and he’s going to anticipate,” she says.

Too fresh: Just like children in school, a horse with too much energy is not going to be able to focus on what you’re asking of him, according to Jirkovsky.

How to Handle It

Get mentally prepared: Jirkovsky suggests checking your mind and body for any tension.

“Make sure that you’re relaxed, taking deep breaths, thinking about what you’re going to do, and not transferring negative energy over to your horse,” she says.

Consider working with a friend or a trainer or having someone videotape your performance to see if you’re tensing up while riding, Jirkovsky advises.

Practice pieces: Choose maneuvers or portions of your pattern to practice. To learn your pattern as a whole, Jirkovsky suggests walking it on foot or even using another horse.

“We’ll practice maneuvers in a different order and make sure we have them all down,” she says.

School a Class Correctly

Jirkovsky says you can’t ride every class like you want to win first place. Working on sticky spots with your horse, even at the expense of a placing due to using two hands or breaking pattern, can make way for more successful performances in the future if you do it right.

“Sometimes you have to go to a smaller or open show to school and correct those issues, so that when you go to a show that counts, they’ve been fixed,” she says. “You’ll see many of the top trainers school through their patterns at a show, not being rough, but just keeping the horse focused on them.”

Avoid scaring your horse while schooling, Jirkovsky stresses.

“There’s two types of schooling,” she says. “There is good schooling, which is educational for the horse, and there is schooling to punish the horse. All that does is build apprehension for the next time he goes into the pen. Your schooling has to be proper and patient refocusing and redirecting, otherwise you’re just going to add to your problem.”

Don’t punish: Even if your horse acts up on the pattern, don’t discipline him—instead, recapture his focus.

“The worst thing you can do is punish your horse when he gets upset,” Jirkovsky says. “You just have to redirect his attention.”

Prevention Anticipation in Pattern Classes

Take a walk: Many riders skip walking in favor of other gaits and maneuvers. But Jirkovsky says the slowest gait is key to encouraging a calm and focused performance.

“Walking is a great patience builder, and seems to be a lost art,” she says.

Take some time to warm up, asking your horse to softly bend, flex and respond to your cues before moving on to pattern work.

Cross-train: Working your horse in other disciplines can help his mindset toward your chosen class, Jirkovsky says.

“Take a horse that you always do reining on and go do ranch riding with him,” she says. “Take your horsemanship horse into a trail course and let him refocus a bit on the poles. Adding different classes instead of just that same class where he tends to get upset can help.”

Make the cone a happy place: Jirkovsky leaves cones out in the arena at home and does pattern maneuvers away from the cones, leaving the marker as a resting spot.

“After working our horses around the arena, if we’re going to stand and talk for a while, we’ll do it at the cone,” she says. “The horses really anticipate, and once they see a cone, they think they’re going to have to do something. But we make the cone their resting place.”

For a showmanship horse, Jirkovsky will leave a bucket of grain at each cone, which encourages the horse to have his ears forward, looking forward to being at the cone.

Start with focus: Before you start your pattern, cue your horse with your legs to encourage him to take a breath and focus. This is a move you teach your horse at home after working hard, so do the same thing when you’re about to compete to remind him.

“I’ll roll my legs on the horse’s sides as support, and he’ll lower his head and take a breath,” Jirkovsky says. “At home, I’ll reward him and rub his neck and let him relax as a reward.”

This article about how to avoid an antsy horse and anticipation in a pattern class appeared in the January/February 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Gelding is the surgical removal of both testicles. Performed most frequently in young colts, this procedure removes the primary source of testosterone from the animal, thereby eliminating unwanted stallion-like behavior, such as aggression. The benefits of having a gelding over a stallion for most horse owners are numerous. Geldings are far easier to manage than stallions. They can be turned out with other horses of either gender, and are calmer and more predictable in temperament.

Testicles fully descend from the abdomen into the scrotum by roughly 1 to 2 years of age in horses. Most veterinarians recommend gelding as soon as both testicles have descended. The younger the colt is at the time of gelding, the easier the procedure, as blood vessels to the testicles are smaller in young animals. This means there is less bleeding at the time of surgery.

A basic gelding can be performed with the horse either standing or lying down—it usually depends on the veterinarian’s personal preference.

Anesthesia

The first step in equine castration is sedation. The initial amount of sedation given prior to gelding is based on the horse’s estimated body weight and temperament. Most commonly, the sedative is administered via an intravenous (IV) injection in the jugular vein. Given this way, the drugs take effect very quickly, and within minutes the horse will appear quiet and relaxed, with a lowered head, droopy lower lip, and a hind leg bent and resting on the toe. At this point, the veterinarian may palpate the horse’s testicles to make sure both are descended.

If the horse is to be castrated lying down, the anesthetic drugs used to make him unconscious will be administered next. If a standing procedure will be performed, these medications will not be given; instead, the testicles and scrotum will be blocked with a local anesthetic.

The administration of anesthetic drugs to a horse on the farm is a well-orchestrated series of events that requires everyone to be attentive. After the drugs are given IV, they take effect immediately. The sedated horse will begin to stumble and then drop to the ground. A large area clear of clutter is imperative for this step; as the horse is lying down, he has little control over his movements and could be injured on anything in the way. Procedures can occur out in the pasture, in the riding ring, or wherever there is plenty of light.

Once the horse is down, most veterinarians would prefer him to be on his back with one or both hind legs in the air. Since the anesthesia lasts for a finite period—usually between 15 and 30 minutes—the vet must work quietly and efficiently to prep the surgical site, perform the castration, and clean up before the horse awakens and attempts to rise.

Gelding Surgery

Both the standing and recumbent methods of castration are surgically performed the same way. After scrubbing the surgical site, the vet will make two incisions into the scrotum, one over each testicle.

Most veterinarians use an instrument called an emasculator for removing the testicles. It both crushes and cuts the spermatic cord. Crushing is required to prevent bleeding. If the horse is a large colt or an adult, the vet will also likely place stitches called ligatures around the cord to further prevent bleeding. These ligatures are made of absorbable suture material and will not need to be removed.

Once the testicles have been removed, the incision is left open. This is a very important part of the castration procedure, as it allows the surgical wound to drain slowly over the course of a week or two, reducing the chance of excessive, painful swelling.

After the surgery is finished, the horse will be positioned on his side and allowed to wake up from anesthesia. He will be groggy and unsteady when he first attempts to stand, so be sure to stand clear and give him room to find his balance. Once he’s steady and quiet, take him to his stall, a quiet paddock or a round pen. Remove all feed, even hay, until he’s is fully awake, which is generally within a few hours.

An adult horse with only one descended testicle is called a cryptorchid, sometimes colloquially referred to as a “ridgling” or “rig.” An undescended testicle can be in an intermediate location between the abdomen and scrotum. These horses are sometimes called “high flankers” and can usually still be castrated on the farm. An undescended testicle can also occasionally be retained completely within the abdominal cavity. These cases often require more extensive surgical exploration to locate and remove the testicle and may need to be referred to a veterinary hospital.

Post-Op Care for Gelding

It’s essential to closely monitor the horse’s overall demeanor and his surgical site for the first few weeks following castration. Some drainage will drip from the open incision for up to two weeks. This drainage will at first appear bloody, and then over time it may take on a more serum-like appearance. Mild to moderate swelling of the scrotum is also likely to occur, even with the open drainage. Frequently, swelling will travel along the sheath. This is normal and is not severe enough to interfere with urination.

While the area is draining, debris may collect along and between the horse’s hind legs. In the summer months, this may attract flies, so strict fly control is essential to help prevent infection at the incision site. Many vets prefer to perform castrations in the spring or fall to avoid fly season. If drainage is bothering the horse, cold hosing once a day for the first week or so can help keep the incision clean, help decrease swelling and inflammation, and make him feel better.

Over the next two weeks, the horse needs unmounted exercise. Movement will help encourage drainage and decrease swelling. Some horses may be stiff and not feel like moving, so just turning the horse out in the pasture is generally not sufficient. Daily longeing at the trot is often recommended. The open incisions should close by roughly three weeks. Normally, after four weeks, the horse is healed enough to return to work or training.

For pain management, many vets will administer a dose of an anti-inflammatory medication at the time of surgery. Oral phenylbutazone (bute) for a few days post-surgery may also be prescribed.

Veterinarians vary in their opinions on the use of preventive antibiotics post-castration. If there were complications or a breach in sterility during surgery, or if there is a question of whether the horse will be able to be closely monitored or kept clean during post-op care, the vet may choose to start him on a course of broad-spectrum antibiotics. Otherwise, such medications generally aren’t needed. Another common prophylactic measure post-castration is a tetanus booster.

Complications

Although castration is a very common procedure, it is still surgery and should not be dismissed as simple or routine. A few complications can occur.

1. Post-operative hemorrhage: After gelding surgery, a slow drip of blood from the incision is acceptable, but a steady, fast drip or flow of blood is not. If excessive bleeding occurs during the surgery, the veterinarian may pack the incision site with sterile gauze, which can be removed in a few hours. This usually provides enough pressure on the bleeding vessel to stop the hemorrhage. In rare cases when post-op bleeding is profuse, the horse will have to be anesthetized again so the vet can search for the leaking blood vessel, clamp it and tie it off with a stitch.

2. Excessive swelling: Another possible complication is caused by premature healing of the incision site. If it closes too soon, drainage can’t occur and fluid will accumulate in the scrotum. This is not only uncomfortable for the horse, but it also increases the risk of infection. If the incision heals too quickly and results in excessive swelling, your veterinarian will usually re-open it to allow more time for drainage.

3. Infection: This is always a possible complication in an open incision. By monitoring drainage, you can tell if an infection is present; drainage should never smell bad or appear thick. Heat from the surgical site and a horse that is acting lethargic, is off his feed or has a fever are all signs of infection. If this is the case, the vet will re-examine the area. Depending on the infection, the site may be flushed with antiseptic and opened further if necessary; a course of antibiotics could be prescribed as well. Rarely, infection travels up the stump of the remaining spermatic cord. This condition is called a “scirrhous cord” and requires a second surgery to remove the cord that harbors infected tissue.

4. Eventration: This is an extremely rare but life-threatening complication of gelding. This occurs when tissue, either intestine or abdominal fat called omentum, protrudes through the incision. Monitoring the site at least twice daily will help catch most complications in a timely manner. During the first day or so after surgery, you may see a small blood clot, which is normal. If you see something other than this hanging from the incision site, or you are unsure what you are seeing, call the vet immediately.

Understanding the basics of equine gelding and aftercare will help you be more comfortable if you ever have a horse undergo this procedure. Knowing how to care for your horse post-operatively will help set you up for a complication-free experience.

This article originally appeared in the March 2014 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Split reins are by far the most versatile type of reins used in western riding, but they can be a bit challenging to master. The two separate reins can get tangled, dropped, or become uneven while riders struggle to properly manipulate them. Improper use can also disqualify you from your western show class.

Here, reining and ranch versatility trainer Bud Lyons shares an overview of how to use this equipment and gives tips on how to improve your dexterity.

The Benefits of Split Reins

Split reins are the standard in reining, with the occasional pair of romal reins (a set of reins connected to a single tail), Lyon says. You’ll see a mix of romal and split reins in ranch versatility events and reined cow horse, but split reins are the rein of choice for cutting and most western all-around events, such as horsemanship. When using a snaffle bit in western events, only split reins can be used.

“A lot of times, the type of equipment you use in reining and ranch versatility events is predicated by your background, as well as the region you come from and the type of horse you have,” Lyons says. “I think split reins have become the go-to in performance events because of their practicality.”

Most often, split reins are made from a strip of harness leather. They can be various lengths and widths and can be weighted on the ends. These options make this piece of tack highly customizable to suit your preferences. Lyon suggests trying out different sets of split reins to discover which ones fit you and your horse best.

Riding Two-Handed

In the show pen, you’re most likely to show one-handed, unless you’re riding a horse in a snaffle. Two hands on your reins with a shanked bit will often disqualify you in a class.

With a snaffle, and when practicing on a green horse as home, riders often use two hands.

“On a younger horse, we’re going to use a direct rein, pulling on one side to guide the nose and teach the horse to follow his nose for steering and guiding,” Lyon explains. “Later on in the training process, you also apply the neck rein on the opposite side of the neck to connect the two cues, which will enhance your ability to guide that horse, eventually, with one hand.”

To hold the reins two-handed, unless you’re an experienced rider, most often you’ll lay each rein across your horse’s neck, with one rein on top of the other. Reach down and grab the reins on either side of the horse’s neck with at least 12 to 24 inches of rein between them, palms down, then bring your hands up above the mane, thumbs facing up, palms facing each other. Your right rein will flow up through your right hand, across your palm and out to the left hand, then down on the left side of the horse—and vice versa (see photo above).

More experienced riders will sometimes keep both rein ends on one side, switching quickly from one-handed to two by picking up one rein with their other hand and holding both reins in the original hand (see photo below). Your hand position is the same as before, but the reins are not crossed over the neck.

“I have done that before, but it’s a bit of a drawback if you’re not comfortable using split reins; it’s easier to accidentally drop one of the reins, and in that scenario, one rein is more likely to fall to the ground than if they are crossed over the neck,” Lyon says. “That becomes not only a safety issue, but it can disqualify you in competition.”

Riding One-Handed

Guiding one-handed is the ultimate goal for riding a western horse, especially in competition, Lyon says. This involves only the neck rein cue to ask the horse to move away from its pressure—no more direct rein cues, as used while riding two-handed.

To hold the reins one-handed, you’ll typically use your non-dominant hand—so your left hand if you’re right-handed—with both tails of the reins on that side of the horse’s neck. With the reins pressed together, place your thumb on one side of the reins, your index finger in between the reins, and your middle, ring and pinky fingers curled around the other side of the reins, palm side down.

Depending on which class you’re in, you may rotate your hand until your thumb is pointing up and bend your elbow to match the standard riding position for that class. In reining and ranch riding, you’ll hold your reins with your palm down when your horse is on a loose rein.

To adjust your reins and tighten them, pinch with your thumb and index finger for one side, or middle finger and index finger for the other one, to walk down the reins toward the bit and take up the slack. To loosen the reins, you’ll loosen your grip and walk back on the reins with your fingers until they’re the length you want.

Practice Makes Perfect

If you’re unfamiliar with using split reins, there can be a bit of a learning curve.

“It’s certainly something that takes repetition in order to feel comfortable, until it gets to the point where it’s just muscle memory,” Lyon says.

He suggests hanging a bridle up on a chair in front of you and sitting with the reins in your hand, practicing tightening, loosening, and adjusting each rein as well as both together. You can do this at the barn or take your bridle home and practice while sitting on the couch. This removes the extra challenges of guiding a horse and allows you to build your muscle memory.

“I use the analogy of learning to use chopsticks,” Lyon says. “It can feel very awkward, uncomfortable, and unusual in the beginning. But the more you practice, the more comfortable, efficient, and effective you get.”

This article about how to use split reins appeared in the March 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Marked by fluid lead changes around a cone-marked course, western riding is a challenging class for all-around competitors. But with skill, preparation and careful navigation, you can guide your horse to a penalty-free score. Here, trainer Bruce Vickery shares his advice to confidently tackle the western riding class.

The Goal

Vickery says focus should be on fluidity of flying lead changes, followed by precision in the pattern.

“Scoring is based on quality of movement, the quality of the change, smooth transitions, timing, the placement of your transitions and the placement of your lead changes,” says Vickery. “You want to do everything you can to stay out of the penalty zone.”

Penalties occur mainly when you fail to change leads within the designated change box written on the pattern. Whether it’s changing leads too early or too late, each stride outside the invisible box incurs point penalties.

The Pattern Unpacked

Western riding patterns are posted at the show and are also printed in association rule books. For example, the American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) has nine regular patterns. Each AQHA pattern starts out with a walk-in. Vickery suggests establishing a nice, cadenced walk without checking your horse’s stride as you approach your first cone.

“Once you’re at the cone and the judge nods to you to start the pattern, you’ll want to walk with your hand down and let your horse walk in a cadenced fashion,” he says. “The next transition for each of the patterns is going to be the jog. It’s really important to plan where you begin your jog.”

You’ll be jogging over a single pole on the ground as one of your maneuvers. Vickery says to make sure you approach the log straight on, with cadence.

“You want to practice so that the rhythm and speed remain the same before, over and after the pole,” says Vickery. “You don’t want to start out slow, jog over the pole, and then be moving faster.”

Depending on the pattern, you’ll ask your horse for a lope, and you’ll either start coming around to go down the line of cones, or you’ll go across the center of the arena for those lead changes.

If you’re going down the line first, Vickery says you’ll want to avoid making the corner on to the line too wide, which can throw off your sequence of lead changes down the line.

“You almost want to square the corner off so you can be straight heading down the line,” he says. “You’ll begin counting strides toward your first lead change after the first cone.”

Also read – How to Tack Up for Western Riding

After each change, Vickery suggests not dwelling on the lead change until it’s time for your next one—this reduces your involuntary anticipation of the change, which can trigger your horse’s anticipation.

After changing leads several times, some patterns will have you loping across the arena and changing in the center before turning to the left or right around the cones at the opposite side of the arena.

All patterns will include a lope-over log—the same log you jogged over earlier in the pattern. You’ll either cross it as you are going back and forth across the arena, or at the end of that series of changes. Either way, Vickery suggests counting your strides to the pole to make sure you hit it after your horse has touched down his last front leg and gathered himself up to reach out with his back legs.

“Remember, you want to maintain the same rhythm up to the pole and afterward without changing,” he says.

Your pattern will include a stop and backup. Your horse should stop on his hind end with his head level, not thrown into the air. You will then ask him to back with cadence.

“Your backup doesn’t have to be fast, but it needs to show your horse is willing to do it,” Vickery says.

At the conclusion of the pattern, you will exit the arena.

Challenges

Because the western riding pattern and course contains so many elements—all three gaits, jog and lope-over poles, and between seven and eight lead changes—Vickery says timing can be a challenge.

“Many riders struggle with figuring out where they need to execute the [lead] changes,” he says. “More times than not, I think people anticipate those changes, and that transmits to the horse, causing him to want to change.”

To combat anticipation, Vickery reminds you to stay patient, quiet and wait until you’re in position to start thinking about your change. Going down the line, where you’re serpentining between cones that are 30 to 50 feet apart, Vickery advises counting your strides. But first, it’s a good idea to find out how far apart they are on the day of the show. You can ask show management or a trainer at the show.

“As you approach the point between two cones, start counting [strides]: ‘1, 2, 3, change,’” Vickery says. “If you’ve got a long line, like 50 feet in between each cone, it’s probably going to be a little bit more—maybe ‘1, 2, 3, 4, change.’”

On the path across the arena, you’ll change leads in the middle between the cones. To see the approximate spot in which you should make your lead change, you’ll need to gauge the middle of the arena. For many of the patterns, you’ll see the pole lined up in the middle, which aligns with where you need to change. If not, pick a marker on the arena wall to line up with. Vickery suggests preparing for your change only a couple of strides before that point to avoid anticipation, rather than thinking about it from the time you turn to go across the arena.

Before entering your first western riding class, Vickery advises practicing the entire pattern a few times at home.

“For a novice, it’s a good idea to practice the whole pattern a little bit, just so that you get your feet wet, you get a feel for the spacing and where you need to go,” he says. “But after you’ve done it a few times, you want to do bits and pieces, otherwise your horse will be thinking exactly where to go all the time.”

Focusing on one part of the pattern at a time will help increase your skill level without your horse anticipating the pattern.

This article about acing your western riding pattern appeared in the November/December 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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If you’re like many horse property owners around the country, suburban sprawl and increased development has made your neighbors these days less likely to be farmers and more likely to be folks unfamiliar with horses. This scenario can be tricky to navigate. But there are pros to living in closer proximity to others, and by taking some steps to be prepared, you can pave the way to good neighborly relationships.

The Perks of Owning Horse Property

Living in the country away from lots of people has its benefits. But horse property owners who live among residential neighborhoods can also have merit.

Steve Archer and his wife Andrea live in Richmond, Texas, a town inside Houston—Texas’s biggest city, population 2.31 million. They’ve run their reining horse training operation from this location for close to 30 years. Their place used to be surrounded by farmland, but today, their 10 acres are surrounded by subdivisions.

Archer says the availability of good food options is one perk he and his wife enjoy.

“We’ve been married 36 years, and we don’t know how to cook, so we go to lunch together every day,” Archer says. “We love being close to so many restaurants. It’s nice.”

Their property value has skyrocketed as the land around them has developed. Archer sees this as their “exit plan” for when the couple is ready to retire.

Being surrounded by houses can be a great funnel for a lesson program. The Archers have a training operation that has run up to 150 lessons a week in years past. Today, they have scaled back on the quantity of lessons.

“I don’t have my number on our sign anymore, because my phone never stopped ringing [for lessons], but we’re still probably busier than most people,” Archer says. “If you had the drive, you could do 300 lessons a week here.”

Similarly, Oak Brook Farms is on a horse property that’s been in existence since the 1950s, and the boarding stable has been in operation since the late 1980s, nestled within the town of Oak Brook, Ill., a suburb of Chicago. The town has a rich horse history, according to Oak Brook Farms’ longtime barn manager Suzanne Galdun. Stables in the area used to host regular polo matches, among other horse activities.

“We are the last public stable remaining,” Galdun says. “We’re in the middle of some million-dollar homes, and they’ve been here all along. There’s further development going on a piece of property next door to us.”

Horse property owner Marissa Brockette has a hobby farm with three horses in Shelbyville, Tenn., a town with around 20,000 residents about half an hour from Murfreesboro and an hour from Nashville. Her parents bought the property in 2004. They started with 24 acres in a neighborhood and then purchased the 12 acres next door, all on the back side of a country club.

“It’s nice, because we’re the only horses in the area, so we don’t have other horses coming through, and we don’t have to worry about [equine] diseases too much,” Brockette says. “It’s a nice, quiet neighborhood, and we can do our own thing. Everybody kind of leaves us alone.”

The Downsides

If you’re a horse property owner who has land with residential homes around it, Archer says you’ll probably end up spending more than you would in a less-developed area.

The Archers do have to contend with unfamiliar people walking up to their property, but good fences and locked gates has deterred unwanted visitors inside their property line.
Despite being in a residential area, Oak Brook Farms is at the end of a dead-end street, so it doesn’t get through traffic. But it does share a road with the back entrance of a subdivision, so speeding cars can spook horses being hacked near the road, and curious passersby sometimes stop their cars near the arena, which can distract riders.

Oak Brook Farms experiences a lot of walk-up guests­­—despite a sign posted that reads “Admittance by Appointment Only.” Galdun says the staff discourages these kinds of visits.

“We have lessons, local people know that we’re here, and some will drive up and just want to look around,” Galdun says. “For liability and safety reasons, we don’t let people just wander off.”

Brockette says passersby will sometime stop and feed their horses too—something she heads off as soon as she sees it.

“I’ll go out there and talk to them, introduce them to the horses, and tell them not to give them treats,” Brockette says. “We haven’t had too many issues.”

Being landlocked by residential properties means Oak Brook cannot offer grass turnout—all the lots are dry. Galdun says that may keep some potential boarders from keeping a horse there.

Making It Work

Galdun says if you’re living surrounded by houses, good manure management and disposal is the most important step—along with fly control. And even though Archer’s farm is meticulously maintained, he says the only trouble is his manure pile.

“I can only get them to remove it a couple of times a year. But I haven’t really had anybody say anything about it—they see the whole picture, and it’s very nice.”

“We honestly have not had any trouble, but I really think it’s because we keep it looking so nice,” Archer adds. “I could see if it was a dump, it might be different.”

Manure disposal is also a challenge for Oak Brook Farms. The facility’s compact 6-acre configuration doesn’t allow for manure spreading, and dumpster collection is expensive. Because they’re the only horse property in the area, the farm can’t share pickup charges. So if you plan on owning horse property that is more urban, you’ll need to know what your city’s regulations are for this.

Another thing to consider is the methods you use to train your horses. Especially if your facilities are visible from the road or to your neighbors, Archer says you need to take a critical eye to how you handle your horse.

“You may run into trouble with animal activists, or non-horse folks who don’t understand your methods,” Archer says. “Everything I’m doing to a horse when I’m riding, I am always thinking that I want that horse’s life to be better. But people can take things out of context. You need to be aware of how it looks to other people.”

Be aware of your area’s zoning and know how many horses you can have on your property. Brockette advises knowing your neighborhood’s rules, particularly about horses and the distance you need to keep them from your perimeter.

Galdun says Edward Vendel, the owner of Oak Brook Farms, has always been active in the local village, attending village meetings so he is a familiar face to many in the area.

Oak Brook Farms has signs posting the equine liability act so that guests are aware of the inherent dangers of horses. Having the facility mostly inaccessible to unaccompanied folks has reduced chances for accidents with neighbors. In addition, you should talk to an equine insurance agent about what liability insurance might be needed for your property.

“We haven’t had anything particular happen,” Galdun says. “We have a gate at the end of the driveway, and we are mostly fenced in. There’s no traffic on our street.”

The staff and boarders are kind to visitors, and when hacking down the street, they’re cordial to neighbors—all steps to increase goodwill in the area.

Galdun recommends feeling out your neighbors to see if they mind horses coming close to their property line. Clear communication with your neighbors is your best opportunity to foster goodwill and friendly relationships when owning horse property

“Having that conversation so that people on both sides have an understanding and expectation will help everyone not to be surprised by anything,” Galdun says.

This article about challenges face by horse property owners originally appeared in the September 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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