Your horse’s lower legs are the most injury-prone component of his conformation. From strained ligaments and pulled tendons to popped splint bones and bruised heels, there’s a nightmarish list of injuries simply one bad step away. Fortunately, there’s an array of protective leg boots available to help your horse. To help you select the best ones for your horse, here’s an overview of the most common types.
Worn around the front pasterns, these dome-shaped boots cover your horse’s sensitive heels. They’re indispensable for horses that are likely to overreach, a misstep that occurs when a hind hoof grabs the heel of a front hoof. Overreaching can result in painful heel cuts and bruises, and also pull off a shoe.Basic splint boots protect the inside of the leg from being struck. Bell boots cover your horse’s sensitive heels. Photo: Groomee/shutterstock
When to use bell boots:
Choose bell boots large enough to encircle your horse’s pastern without chafing, and long enough to cover your horse’s entire heel. In back, the bottom of the bell boot should end just above the outer edge of your horse’s shoe.
Keep the Velcro straps clean and dry or they’ll lose their stickability. Pull-on bell boots are a more reliable option, but they must be inverted and stretched over your horse’s hoof.
Splint boots have adjustable straps on the outside of the leg and a reinforced, cushioned pad that covers the inside of the cannon bone. They can prevent cuts, lumps and tiny fractures of the splint bone that may occur when a horse inadvertently strikes the inside of its leg with an errant hoof.
Be sure the strike pad is aligned with the inside of the front leg so that it covers the cannon bone and fetlock. Then tighten the straps just enough to hold the boot in place. Splint boots that are too tight can bind against the underlying soft tissue, causing abrasions and swelling.
It’s simple to figure out which boot goes on which leg: the tail end of the straps should always point toward the tail of the horse. This ensures that any pressure created by tightening the straps goes across the front of the cannon bone rather than against the fragile tendon at the back of the leg.All-purpose or galloping boots are often used for cross-country. Photo: Jim Noetzel/shutterstock
Also referred to as “galloping boots,” these are go-to accessories for a variety of sport horses. The design goes beyond the bare-bones basics of splint boots: The protective pad covers most of the horse’s cannon bone, along with the inside of the fetlock. Moreover, the strike pad is often a resilient plastic.
Hind boots should be slightly larger and longer than those worn on the front legs.
Inspect all-purpose boots regularly, especially after rigorous use. Hand wash and air-dry as needed.Sport boots protect your horse’s lower leg from just below the knee to the base of the fetlock joint. CustomPhotographyDesigns/shutterstock
These boots protect your horse’s lower leg from just below the knee to the base of the fetlock joint. The hallmark is an ergonomically designed strap that “slings” under the fetlock.
Read the manufacturer’s sizing chart carefully. Sport boots must fit snugly. If you discover sand or grit when you remove them, they’re too loose. Yet if applied too tightly, they can create painful pressure points.
Due to the slight nap of the fabric, burrs and stickers can accumulate during a trail ride. To make them easier to remove, spray coat polish or tail detangler on the exterior of the boots before you head out.Open-front boots boots shield tendons, ligaments and fetlocks from being struck by a hind hoof as the horse negotiates a challenging course. Photo: CatwalkPhotos/shutterstock
Specifically created for jumping, open-front boots are worn on the horse’s front legs. A protective shell cradles the back of the leg while the front of the leg is left exposed, except for the straps that hold the boot in place. These boots shield tendons, ligaments and fetlocks from being struck by a hind hoof as the horse negotiates a challenging course.
You should be able to slide one finger between the strap and the front of your horse’s leg. If the straps leave impressions when the boots are removed, then they are probably too tight. Be sure the back of the boot doesn’t interfere with the bending of the knee joint.
When using any type of protective boots, always apply a clean boot to a clean leg. Check fit and look for sensitivity to certain materials that could cause irritation. All protective boots should be removed promptly as soon as a horse’s work is finished.
This article originally appeared in the May 2018 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!
Further reading:
Leg Bandages-Bandaging Your Horse’s Legs
Durability of Disposable Overboots Under Simulated Field Conditions
Cindy Hale’s life with horses has been filled with variety. As a child she rode western and learned to barrel race. Then she worked as a groom for a show barn, and was taught to harness and drive Welsh ponies. But once she’d taken her first lessons aboard American Saddlebreds she was hooked on English riding. Hunters and hunt seat equitation came next, and she spent decades competing in those divisions on the West Coast. Always seeking to improve her horsemanship, she rode in clinics conducted by world-class riders like George Morris, Kathy Kusner and Anne Kursinski. During that time, her family began raising Thoroughbred and warmblood sport horses, and Cindy experienced the thrills and challenges of training and showing the homebred greenies. Now retired from active competition, she’s a popular judge at local and county-rated open and hunter/jumper shows. She rides recreationally both English and western. Her Paint gelding, Wally, lives at home with her and her non-horsey husband, Ron.
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