Eucerin Oil Control Sun Gel-Cream SPF 50+

When you’re on vacation, there’s little time to wait for your sunscreen to dry before you blast off to the barn or beach. This dry-touch facial sunblock for oily, acne-prone skin ensures you don’t have to delay, so dirt is less likely to stick to it. An added bonus? It’s extra water- and sweat-resistant.

Available for $19.58 on caretobeauty.com.

Blundstone Chelsea No. 550

Iconic for a reason, Blundstone boots mold to your feet and wear like iron; they’re made of durable, double-stitched leather. The Chelsea No. 550 boot offers outstanding, lightweight shock absorption. Pull tabs make sure you can get them on quickly and easily.

Available for $209.95 on blundstone.com.

Hydaway Collapsible Travel Bottle

A collapsible water bottle ensures you stay hydrated without weighing you down. Collapses to a 1.5-inch disc and holds 17 ounces of water when expanded (a 25-ounce option is also available). Dishwasher safe, it’s made of food-grade silicone and BPA-free plastic. Available in a variety of colors.

Available for $29.95 on shop.myhydaway.com.

Helmet Brims Horseback Riding Standard Brim Sun Visor

The Helmet Brims Riding Sun Visor blocks both the sun and the rain without blocking your vision. Lightweight and easy to fit onto your helmet using velcro and elastic, this visor is made with Australian shade cloth that ensures high sun protection while also being exceptionally durable and offering a bit of visibility. Various trim color options.

Available for $46.95 from ridingwarehouse.com.

Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30

Whether you’re in the rain or in the wind, Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30 is the perfect moisturizing lip balm. Offering both UVA and UVB protection, this cocoa butter-infused balm is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes.

4-count available for $9.99 on amazon.com.

Body Glide Anti-Chafe Stick

Keep your thighs and backside chafe-free no matter how long you spend in the saddle with Body Glide Anti Chafe Stick. Sweat- and water-resistant, this easy-to-apply balm creates an invisible barrier to protect skin from rubbing, chafing, pinching, and other irritants.

Available from $5.49 to $16.99 on bodyglide.com.

Ariat VentTEK Stretch Shirt

Wear-tested and ready to ride, the button-front shirt offers UV protection and VentTEK side panels for air flow. Its moisture-wicking technology is designed for optimal comfort in any weather, ensuring you look good no matter how long you ride.

Available for $58.95 on ariat.com.

Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers

It’s not always your seat bones that get sore when you’re spending hours on end in the saddle. Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers reduce pressure around the pubic bones, ensuring more even weight distribution and a comfortable, safer seat. Available in western, dressage and jumping options.

Price varies by model; purchase on acavallo.com.

This article about trail and marathon riding essentials appeared in the January/February 2025  issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Trail and Marathon Riding Essentials appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Troxel Spirit with Mips®

A low profile and full-coverage design for optimal comfort. The vent placement allows for maximum airflow, and there’s a FlipFold removable washable headliner. The DialFit system allows for a precise fit. The Spirit helmet with MIPS is ASTM/SEI-certified and is available in several colors and patterns.

Starting at $110.99 at troxelhelmets.com.

Tough 1 Western Easy Out Stirrups

Don’t get stuck in a bad situation! When pressure is applied to the outside of this stirrup, like in a fall, the side of this stirrup will open up and give your foot room to release. This safety feature helps to prevent getting tangled in the stirrups and sustaining further injury. Available in adult and youth sizes.

Available for $151.88 on tough1.com.

Charles Owen Kylo EQx

This is the first dial-fit helmet in the U.S. that has all three international safety certifications. Lightweight with extensive ventilation, it features a sweat-wicking, machine washable headband. Available in both navy and black, there is optional MIPS protection and both standard or wide peaks.

Ranging from $190 to $228 on charlesowen.com.

Horse Pilot Twist’Air Airbag Vest

Made in France and approved to the new NF S72-800:2022 standard (the first and only standard developed for equestrian airbags), the Twist’Air Airbag vest ensures safety, comfort and discretion. Can be worn under one of Horse Pilot’s competition or schooling jackets.

Available for $799 (compatible jackets sold separately) on horsepilot.com.

Racesafe ProVent3

Combining breathable, lightweight comfort with maximum protection for riders of all ages and disciplines. The Racesafe ProVent3 offers the highest standards in safety performance, certified to BETA 2018 Standard level 3. Made of over 100 individually hinged segments for rider flexibility and movement in a wide range of sizes for a custom fit.

Starting at $389 on racesafe.co.

Tipperary Eventer Pro Vest

Patented Tectonic Foam plating is a unique double-layer pattern that moves and flexes without any separation or gaps. Live Spine technology provides increased impact protection while flexing and matching movement. SEI certified to the ASTM F1937 standard, and the most comfortable option to pair with an air vest.

Available for $479.99 on tipperaryequestrian.com.

Acavallo Arena Alupro Stirrups

The Arena Alupro stirrups feature a patented side opening and an advanced technical composition. The stainless steel pad with horizontal holes ensures optimal grip in all conditions. The strategically placed lock-and-release mechanism prevents accidental slipping. Available in eight colors.

Available for $221 on acavallo.com.

This article about equestrian safety gear appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Must-Have Equestrian Safety Gear appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“Knowing how bits should sit and fit in a horse’s mouth could help avoid serious problems and setbacks—I suggest using a bit-sizer to start,” says Alan Fisher, a champion trainer with over 20 years’ experience based in Eastover, N.C., who specializes in western pleasure prospects.

He says that riders need to learn the control points of different bits, the mechanics behind mouthpieces, and what exactly should be achieved with each type of bit.

Snaffles vs. Ported

There are two important categories of bits: ported (leverage) and snaffle (direct action).

Ported or “correction” bits come in low, medium, and high leverage levels, and feature an inverted curve, U-shape, spoon-shape, square-hinge or spade-shape at the center of the mouthpiece. These shapes provide tongue pressure relief. Western bits have shanks that connect the reins to the bit, which vary from 4 to 8 inches long.

Both English and western ported bits come with a chain or curb strap to stop the bit from harming a horse’s mouth.

Snaffle bits work by direct pressure from the ring to the rider’s hand through the rein, and either type of bit can be made from stainless steel, copper, titanium, sweet iron or aluminum. Some mild snaffles are made of plastic, rubber, leather or fabric material.

Snaffle Cheek Pieces

While ported bits always have a shank cheek, there are several common styles of cheek rings in snaffles, each with a different effect.

◆ Loose rings move with the horse’s lips, tongue and jaw by gliding through the attached mouthpiece.

◆ Full cheeks have two short bars coming off the sides, one on top and one on the bottom of the fixed mouthpiece. This bit is useful for young or inexperienced horses who need help with steering or to learn how to carry their head without tilting.

◆ D-ring and eggbutt snaffles are both fixed options that resemble the letter D or an oval-egg shape. These are less likely to move side to side in the mouth.

Snaffle Mouthpieces

As opposed to the mouthpieces described above for ported bits, snaffles have straight mouthpieces with various shapes and joints.

◆ Non-jointed snaffles have a mouthpiece that’s straight across with no breaks in the metal, rubber or plastic.

◆ Single-jointed snaffles are considered a basic, and feature a break in the bit with a joint in the middle that creates a V-shape in a horse’s mouth that puts rein pressure on the bars of the jaw and edges of the tongue.

◆ Double-jointed snaffles follow the shape of the tongue better than a single-jointed bit. They have two joints that connect the sides of the bit with a central link.

◆ Smooth snaffles are on the milder side and work well with sensitive mouths and for beginners who aren’t as gentle on a horse’s mouth.

◆ Twisted-wire snaffles are considered more severe and are commonly used for horses that tend to hang or pull on the rider’s hands, or when more control is needed, such as galloping cross-country.

◆ Roller bits have movable pieces that rotate and help a horse to relax his mouth and jaw.

Combo Action

English riders sometimes use leverage bits combined with snaffle action.

◆ Double bridles have a curb bit and chain, a snaffle bit with small loose rings called a bradoon, and two sets of reins. They are used in upper-level dressage and show jumping, as well as saddle seat riding.

◆ Pelham bits are most often found in hunter rings, on foxhunters, and on the polo field, and are designed to combine the action of a curb bit with a snaffle, like a double bridle.

This bit provides leverage on the jaw with its lower shanks and curb chain to encourage flexion at the poll and stronger brakes, while the snaffle mouthpiece gives turning control.

Pelhams are usually used with two sets of reins, although “converters” are available for beginners that switch the bit to one set of reins—but these negate much of the bit’s action.

Soft Feel

Western trainer Shawn Alter shares that nerves and being scared is why most riders have heavy hands and tend to use the bit too aggressively.

“You must take the time to practice and gain the muscle memory of going to the horse’s mouth softly, asking first, and giving him a chance to respond while softening with your fingers to create a nice flow without any yanking,” says Alter, who owns Shawn Alter Quarter Horses in New Alexander, Pa., and specializes in showing, training, selling and judging horses for local and open shows.

“To be an efficient and well-rounded rider, you’ll need to learn to ride more with your seat and legs, and have less pull on the reins.”

A Bit Reactive

“Horses often learn to be angry at the bit when they feel rushed or pushed beyond their abilities,” says all-around Quarter Horse trainer Melissa Jones, who owns Jones Performance Horses along with her husband, Chris, in Reelsville, Ind. “Horses who haven’t learned to give to the bit or choose not to give tend to turn defensive and act out.”

The more you are heavy-handed or jerk on a horse’s mouth, the more the horse will want to get away from that pressure, she says.

“Not leaning on a snaffle is important because our goal is for the horse not to lean on the bit, and holding will reinforce that.”

Releasing Pressure

Trainer Alyse Roberts says that releasing bit pressure as a reward is key for teaching a horse to self-carry correctly.

“I’d rather see a rider who releases hand pressure too soon rather than too late,” says Roberts, who owns Alyse Roberts Performance Horses located in Purcell, Okla., and specializes in all breed hunter under saddle. “Hanging on the bit defeats the purpose and can upset a horse who is trying to do his job, but the rider keeps getting in the way.”

Dental Check-Up

All-around trainer and judge Jamie Dowdy says that it’s critical to rule out physical discomfort in the mouth, which gives the impression of bit trouble.

“A yearly dental exam is needed, especially in young horses, as they can be experiencing mouth and teeth soreness due to shedding baby caps and possible wolf teeth,” says Dowdy of Hartman Farms, a Quarter Horse facility in Marshfield, Mo. “Older horses need routine dentals for preventative measures to stay ahead of any developing problems.”

Just walking into a tack store and looking at the wall of bits can seem daunting. Our bit experts all mentioned that having an experienced trainer guide the transition to a new bit is a smart way to set your horse up for steering, control and—most importantly—communication success.

This article about bits appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post All About Bits appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Ariat Cruisers

Speaking of blurring that line between barn and civilization, I loved my first pair of Ariat Cruisers so much that I ended up buying a second ($94.95). My original pair (that I promised myself would not become a barn shoe) became a barn shoe, especially for those quick little trips to check on a horse, drop something off, or throw hay in the morning before work.

They’re really comfortable, super-easy to slide on and off, and look cute with jeans, shorts, or even breeches. So I gave in, let the originals follow their calling as barn shoes, and I now own a second pair that is truly reserved for excursions into the real world, including work. A number of styles are currently on sale on Ariat’s website, and I just snagged two more pairs in new patterns for less than $40 a piece.

◆ Shop at Ariat.com 

Kerrits Fall Riding Line and EQL Jeans

Kerrits has always been one of my favorite brands for breeches, and I actually still have a few pairs from the late 1990s in my closet. They hold up. But while I’ve been eyeballing their EQL casual clothing line at events like the Kentucky Three-Day Event and Equine Affaire, I’d never felt like taking the time to try on any of their casual clothing. But this summer, at a local tack shop’s annual tent sale, I was the lucky winner of a $250 Kerrits gift certificate. The ladies at The Carousel Horse suggested that I wait for Kerrits’ fall line to come in, and when it did, I was really impressed. Kerrits has maintained their signature style while introducing contemporary colors and patterns. And their high-tech fabrics are both warm and breathable without impeding movement — necessary around here as the weather gets cold and we have to layer up.

I went home with their Bits of Plaid Quilted Vest ($109), which I’m hoping to wear to work a few times before it becomes barn-wear, and a super-soft and warm On Course Quarter Zip Fleece Tech Top ($74) that will be perfect for teaching and riding this fall and winter.

Then, The Carousel Horse ladies mentioned Kerrits’ new EQL jeans, and said that there were a few styles that had come in that even they hadn’t tried yet. I struggle with pants fit (my butt is a size bigger than my waist) but I ended up really liking the In-Motion Bootcut Jean ($99) with a raw hem. The jeans are a little lighter weight with more stretch than what I normally wear, but they’re really comfortable and flattering, and the detailing at the bottom of each leg is a little something different. These have become my go-to Friday “denim-day” jeans for work this fall.

◆ Shop at Kerrits.com 

Muck Boots

As farm owners, my husband and I have a rather large boot collection. I have boots for riding, boots for barn chores, and boots that can do both. My husband is usually in some kind of work boot, preferring something he can slip on and wear comfortably all day.

We’ve always been Muck fans for their durability and comfort, but two additions to their current lineup have been pleasant surprises.

My husband has been really liking Muck’s Mens Western Chore Mid Boot ($140), with a similar rubber foot and neoprene top to Muck’s classic style, but with a much slimmer, western boot profile. The square toe and reinforced heel makes this a boot that can easily convert from barn chores to riding, unlike Muck’s traditional work boots which don’t safely fit into stirrups. My husband, who is not often found on any of our horses, still prefers this more streamlined fit just for working around the farm. He says they feel more secure in the heel and less bulky than traditional Mucks. Last weekend, when the majority of his day was spent repairing things that the horses had broken, he said his feet were comfortable and cool in these boots all day long.

And since our temps have dropped, I’ve been slipping on Muck’s Outscape Max Ankle Boots ($135) every morning before work to take care of the horses. These boots are great. They slide on and off hands-free, a necessity when I’m rushing out the door carrying everything but the kitchen sink. The sole is really rugged and grippy, which I appreciate when I’m leading horses out to their pastures in the dark, especially when it’s been rainy and the ground is soft and I’m running late, dressed in work clothes. And with a footbed that is incredibly light and comfortable, this is another Muck boot that could easily be worn all day long. (Though I toss mine in the trunk after chores on the way to work!)

◆ Shop at MuckBootCompany.com

Dapplebay Riding Top

When an ad for Dapplebay’s riding top in a French toile de Jouy pattern ($58) appeared on my social media, I visited the website and contemplated the shirt. While I’d found myself on Dapplebay’s site a few times before, I’d never committed to a purchase (you know, the whole mental game of “do I need this, or do I want this?”). But something about this classic blue and white pastoral pattern made my “want” win over, and I completed my order. I am usually an end-of-season sale shopper and rarely pay full price for something that I don’t need, but I loved the look of this pattern and was curious about the quality.

When it arrived, I was more than pleased: the fabric is buttery soft; the colors are beautiful and the pattern crisp. Reviews said that this particular shirt tended to run small, so I ordered one size up and the fit was perfect. I was so in love with the design that I went back for the matching saddle pad, too. The shirt is currently sold out, but you can ask to be notified when it’s back in stock.

◆ Shop at Dapplebay.com

Hay Chix Nets

Now that we’re back on daytime turnout in western Pennsylvania, my horses are spending a little more time in their stalls, and I’m so grateful for my HayChix Free Up Feeder hay nets (starting at $110). The large majority of my equines are really easy keepers, but I’m a firm believer in free-choice hay (despite my Fjord occasionally looking like an overstuffed sausage). I was also so sick of waste — watching my 30+ gelding pull his expensive, third-cut hay into the middle of his stall and pee all over it made me want to cry. So when we built our barn, I splurged on Hay Chix nets and swear that they’ve paid for themselves several times over in just two years. I spent the extra $30 per stall on the wider opening (24” x 24”) and am glad I did; between the larger frame and the really easy to use hardware, I can open and close the frame one-handed and never have to set hay on the floor.

Hay Chix advertises that you can open and fill each in less than thirty seconds, and they’re not lying. And for the MacGyvers in your barn who will figure out that if they pop the net hard enough from the bottom with their noggins to undo the latch themselves, there’s a pin you can put in to prevent them opening it (I’m looking at you, Waffles). We fill the nets at night, and most of my crew still has hay in their nets in the morning — which makes both my anxious horse-mom mind and wallet feel good!

◆ Shop on HayChix.com

With these fall equestrian gear picks, you’re sure to be set for barn chores and riding this season. Embrace the beauty of fall while staying comfortable and chic, whether you’re in the saddle or just out enjoying the crisp air.

This fall equestrian gear list is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Fall Equestrian Gear Round-Up appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

When I was a kid, I loved trail riding and had a weekly English lesson. My mom handled most of the logistics—she bought my horse and saddle, took care of his farrier appointments, feeding, and even mucking stalls. I’d just show up for my lessons, load him up for trail rides, and hop in the truck. I never really thought about the “details” of horseback riding.

Now that I’m an adult and have the chance to write articles like this, I’m learning so much. First off, I learned that my mom spoiled me rotten! I also learned that I never took the time to dive into all the parts of a saddle. Sure, I knew the horn was for hanging on when things got a little wild, and the stirrups were where my feet went, but that was about it. The amazing thing about horses is that there’s always something new to learn.

At our local 4-H fair this year, the judge had the riders dismount and asked them trivia questions, including some about saddles. Only one of the 4-H kids could answer her questions. So, if you’re nearby and might encounter this judge in the future, keep reading—you’ll be all set for her.

I’m going to walk you through what I’ve learned about each part of the western saddle.

Saddle Horn

A saddle horn is a prominent feature on a western saddle, and it’s not just there for you to hang on to when your horse gets a little too spirited. There are various shapes and sizes of horns, each designed for specific uses. For instance, trail riding and reining saddles typically have large, round horns, while cutting and barrel racing saddles feature thinner, taller horns. Roping saddles have thick, wrapped horns that help maintain control over heavy livestock. On the other hand, English-style saddles, like dressage and hunt seat saddles, don’t have a horn at all. This is because English riding involves fewer sharp turns, so riders don’t need that extra grip for balance. Each style serves its purpose, reflecting the unique demands of the riding discipline.

Think About It: It’s always best to use a mounting block to reduce strain on a horse’s back. However, if you need to mount from the ground, make sure to position yourself alongside the horse, facing the saddle. Use your horse’s mane for support and avoid pulling on the saddle horn. This approach helps keep your saddle from slipping and ensures a smoother mounting process for both you and your horse.

Pommel/Swell/Fork

The pommel is the front part of the saddle, and its shape and size can vary depending on the saddle’s intended use. In a western saddle, the pommel helps prevent the rider from sliding forward. In contrast, English saddles typically feature a lower pommel, which offers a different riding experience suited to their style.

Gullet

The gullet is the space beneath the pommel, positioned just above the horse’s withers. The design of the pommel and the angle of the bars on the saddle tree determine the gullet’s height and shape. When shopping for a saddle, it’s crucial to use a gullet gauge to measure your horse and find the right size.

Think About It: Wearing a backpack with straps that are too tight or too loose while loaded with books would be uncomfortable. An ill-fitting saddle can lead to similar issues, potentially causing behavior problems in your horse. Always ensure your saddle fits properly. There are many helpful videos online that can guide you on measuring your horse and saddle, but the best approach is to consult a saddle fitter for expert advice.

Also Read: Western Saddle Fit Made Simple

Seat Rise

The seat rise is the raised portion of the seat located directly behind the pommel. This incline helps riders maintain proper position in the saddle, providing additional support and stability while riding. A well-designed seat rise can enhance comfort and aid in effective communication with your horse.

The Seat

The seat is the lowest part of the saddle where the rider sits. It’s a crucial component for comfort and balance while riding. If you ever find yourself in a saddle trivia situation, this is one question you’ll definitely want to get right!

Saddle Fitting Tip: When searching for a new saddle, it’s just as important to ensure it fits you well. Use an online saddle fitting calculator or consult with a saddle fitter to determine the appropriate length for your saddle. Once you have an idea, be sure to try out different options to find the one that feels most comfortable for you.

Cantle

The cantle is the back part of the saddle, and its height can vary based on the saddle’s intended use. For example, ranch and cutting saddles often feature a higher cantle to provide back support, helping to keep the rider securely in place during fast movements. In contrast, trail and show saddles typically have a lower cantle, allowing for more freedom of movement.

Skirt

The skirt is the material at the back of the saddle, behind the seat. It provides stability and helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight. Western saddles come in various skirt shapes and lengths, so it’s important to ensure the skirt fits your horse properly. Additionally, always use a saddle pad that complements the skirt for optimal comfort.

Front Cinch

The front cinch is the thicker strap that keeps the saddle securely in place. In English saddles, this is called a girth.

Saddle Fitting Tip: It’s essential to have the correct size cinch for your horse, as there are sensitive nerves along the belly and sides. You want to avoid any direct pressure from knots or buckles along these areas. Also, if you ride both western and English, keep in mind that the cinch and girth will be different lengths since they buckle at different places.

Front & Rear Rigging/D-Ring

These metal pieces are where your latigo and billet connect to the saddle, providing stability and support for the cinch.

Latigo

The latigo is the leather or nylon strap that connects the cinch to the saddle. You can tie it in a knot for security, or if it has holes, use it with the cinch’s buckle.

Strap Holder/Billet Keeper

After securing your latigo with a buckle or knot, pull the excess strap through the strap holder or billet keeper to keep it off the ground.

Back Cinch/Billet Strap

Some riders use a back cinch, while others don’t. It helps prevent the saddle from bouncing which protects the horse’s lower back. If you use a back cinch, there should be about an inch of space between it and the horse’s belly. You can also connect a cinch hobble between the front and back cinch to keep it secure and prevent it from sliding into the horse’s flank.

Fender

The fender is what you adjust to “change the length of your stirrups.” It connects the stirrup to the saddle and is wide enough to keep your legs from touching the horse’s sides.

Pro Tip: If you’re using a leather saddle, it’s a good idea to keep the leather conditioned to maintain the flexibility of the fenders. This can help improve your comfort while riding. Additionally, there are videos online that demonstrate alternative methods for twisting the leather straps in the back, which can help keep the fender turned outward and reduce pressure on your legs.

Stirrup

The stirrup is where you rest your feet, helping you mount your horse and providing stability while riding.

Saddle Fitting Tip: When it comes to stirrups, there are various sizes and shapes designed to complement different riding disciplines. It’s important to choose stirrups that properly fit your feet to ensure safety, comfort, and stability while riding. A good fit will enhance your overall riding experience and help you maintain better control.

Hobble Strap/Stirrup Strap

This strap, made of leather or nylon, wraps around the fender at the bottom to keep your stirrup in place.

Tie-Down Straps/Conchos

These straps at the back of the saddle can be used to tie up saddle bags or simply for decoration. The conchos are the silver pieces that the straps are connected to.

Breast Collar/Breastplate

While not technically part of the saddle, the breastplate fits around your horse’s chest and connects to the saddle. It helps prevent the saddle from sliding backward, especially when going uphill or jumping. This added stability is important for maintaining a secure fit while riding in more strenuous conditions.

Pro Tip: A neck strap helps keep the breast collar off the shoulder and provides an extra place to hang on to if your horse gets a little wild.

Whew, that’s a lot to take in! I’ve always found that using new vocabulary in everyday situations really helps me remember what those words mean. You don’t have to tackle it all at once—start slow. Pick three terms from this article that you didn’t know before, and when you saddle up your horse this week, say them out loud as you go.

If you don’t have a horse to saddle or just want some extra practice, here is a quiz you can try to test your knowledge of western saddle parts. See answers at the bottom of this page.

Parts of a Western Saddle Quiz

1. What is the primary purpose of the saddle horn in a western saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide grip during riding
c) To tie ropes
d) B and C

2. Which type of saddle typically features a lower pommel?

a) Western saddle
b) Dressage saddle
c) Roping saddle
d) Barrel racing saddle

3. What does the gullet refer to in a saddle?

a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
b) The back part of the saddle
c) The part where you rest your feet
d) The leather strap connecting the cinch

4. Why is it important to have the correct size front cinch?

a) To keep your stirrups in place
b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
c) To enhance the saddle’s appearance
d) All of the above

5. What is the role of the seat rise in a saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide back support
c) To maintain proper riding position
d) To hold the stirrups

6. Which part of the saddle helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight?

a) Cantle
b) Skirt
c) Gullet
d) Fender

7. What is the function of the latigo?

a) To connect the saddle to the stirrup
b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
c) To adjust the height of the cantle
d) To keep the saddle pad in place

8. How can a back cinch benefit the rider and horse?

a) It adds extra decoration
b) It provides a place to hang equipment
c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
d) It makes mounting easier

9. What is a common use for tie-down straps on a saddle?

a) To secure the saddle to the horse
b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
c) To connect the stirrups
d) To adjust the seat height

10. What is a breastplate’s primary function?

a) To make the saddle look nice
b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward
c) To provide additional storage
d) To help with dismounting

Answers:

1. d) All of the above
2. b) Dressage saddle
3. a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
4. b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
5. c) To maintain proper riding position
6. b) Skirt
7. b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
8. c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
9. b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
10. b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward

This article about parts of a western saddle is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Complete Guide to Parts of a Western Saddle — Plus a Quiz appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Finding a bit that gives you the ability to communicate clearly with your horse and one that he enjoys can feel a bit like finding a needle in a haystack. While nothing can take the place of trial and error, Marty Whitehouse Riney, DVM, an equine vet specializing in dentistry and a professional horse trainer based in Kentucky, offers some tips on how to narrow the search for the perfect mouthpiece.

Determining the Right Bit Fit for Your Horse

A bit that is too large can be heavy for a horse to carry; it can cause him to rub his head or become fussy when being bridled and while working. A bit that’s too small can cause even more issues by pinching the sides of the horse’s face or causing painful rubs.

While your horse’s dental care specialist can advise on his general mouth shape, don’t dismiss what you can determine on your own.

“Pull your horse’s lips apart and see how thick his tongue is compared to others in the barn,” says Whitehouse Riney. “If your horse is reasonable, you can also see and carefully feel where the bit sits in his mouth.” This will help determine if his palate (the roof of his mouth) is low, which might indicate what type of bit is most comfortable for him.

“It’s important to realize that bit sizing and palate shape are not the be-all, end-all of bit fit,” she continues. “It’s also important to take into account how thick or thin the horse’s tongue is, which can also make a difference in bit fit.”

Whitehouse Riney says the best way to narrow down your bit search is to look at these five things: Fit, material, thickness, ring type, and joint. Once you find a mouthpiece that fits, you can then start choosing other things around it, such as cheekpiece, diameter and material.

The Right Bit Width and Fit for Your Horse

A 5.5-inch bit width is considered “standard,” but a bit sizing tool can eliminate guesswork if you don’t have bits of varying sizes at your disposal. These tools are made of hard plastic and look like a deworming tube; they’re placed in the corner of the horse’s mouth and slid through until touching the other corner. The measurement displayed corresponds to the bit size that will best fit the horse.

A bit that fits properly will allow for a finger’s width of room between the horse’s cheek and the side of the bit.

Mouthpiece Material

Another thing to remember is that each horse is an individual, just like us.

“What feels good in a horse’s mouth will vary by horse and their anatomy and head shape,” says Whitehouse Riney. How a bit feels to you, as the rider, also plays a role in finding the best bit. “How you ride a horse is different than the way I do; it varies and is based on the individuality of the horse/rider partnership,” she explains.

Texture and weight of the bit can also come into play. Some horses can be adamant about what mouthpiece materials they don’t like, raising their heads when bridled or gaping their mouth as soon as the mouthpiece hits their tongue.

There are several common mouthpiece materials available, including stainless steel, rubber, sweet iron, copper, plastic, and even leather. Trial and error can get pricey, so it’s worthwhile to see if friends or barnmates have some bits you can borrow.

◆ Stainless steel bits are the most common; these won’t rust or flake and are quite durable.

◆ Sweet iron and copper bits encourage salivation and relaxation.

◆ Rubber and plastic bits are not as durable as metal bits, but they are often preferred by horses with sensitive mouths.

◆ Leather mouthpieces are often enjoyed by horses that are highly sensitive; these bits become pliable and soft when soaked with saliva.

Thickness, Ring Diameter & Joint Type

Another measurement to consider is the thickness of the mouthpiece the horse is being asked to carry.

“Horses with petite, thin tongues may not be able to carry a bit with a traditional mouthpiece circumference,” says Whitehouse Riney.

Ring type is another source of variability.

“If you have a horse that’s hard to turn, a fixed cheekpiece, like those on an eggbutt or full cheek, can offer more stability,” she adds. “Other horses like bits that can slide a bit.”

Ring diameter in bits refers to the size of the sides of O-ring, D-ring, eggbutt and loose-ring snaffles; the rings often vary in size from 2.5 to 4 inches.

It can seem there are many as many joint options in bits as there are breeds of horse, and most horses tend to prefer a particular one. In a nutshell, a mouthpiece with more than one joint shapes around the tongue and distributes pressure over the tongue and bars. A bit that is broken in one place places more pressure on the bars, and a solid bit places pressure on the middle of the tongue.

Set Up for Success

The best way to test a bunch of bits is to try out several in one ride, says Whitehouse Riney. The easiest way to do this is to have at least two bridles in the arena with you, each with a different bit on them, and a few more bits waiting in the wings, she advises. To make things go even faster, consider putting quick-snaps on the ends of your reins.

“You won’t need an entire ride in a bit to decide if you and your horse like it,” says Whitehouse Riney. “Two to four minutes with it on and hacking around is plenty to determine if you both like it.”

Comparing bits in this way is almost like being at the optometrist, she says. You can compare each bit to the others, figuring out if it’s worse or better than the others you rode in before.

“A lot of finding what your horse prefers is listening to what he’s telling you,” Whitehouse Riney says. If you have the opportunity to go to a bitting clinic, go, she encourages it. This is often a wonderful way to try lots of bits and determine what your horse prefers, all in one afternoon.

If you show, it’s important to know the bitting rules of your discipline, Whitehouse Riney stresses. No one wants to find a bit their horse loves, only to find out it’s illegal in the show ring!

Further Reading
◆ To Bit or Not to Bit?
◆ English Bit Basics
◆ How to Choose a Western Bit

This article about finding the right bit for your horse appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Finding the Right Bit for Your Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Blue Ridge Trailers is a family-owned business, Donna and Rob Martin found their way into the trailer business largely due to Donna’s lifelong relationship with horses. The research she conducted while buying her trailer began the idea of selling them herself. This prompted Blue Ridge to open in January 2002. Donna’s passion for horses, safety, and education is what the Blue Ridge business model is built around.

Our Sales Philosophy

We make sales by educating the customer; we are not comfortable selling the customers something that is not going to meet their needs, so we put a real emphasis on finding out what they need and want. Part of this process can involve helping them sort through which of those wants don’t meet their actual needs.

For example, people don’t necessarily know how big a trailer or what trailer floorplan they need for the safety and comfort of their horses. For example, If they have big horses, they may not only need a bigger trailer and should also avoid a slant load.

Donna and her Sales Team work on understanding a customer’s intended use of trailers, and their horses, so that they can help a customer make the most informed decision. Come see us and we can educate about trailers and to ensure you have the correct truck to pull it with.

Some Things Other Dealers May Not Tell You

Tow Vehicle

 ◆ Brake Controllers: All horse trailers have brakes, and every tow vehicle must have a brake controller to coordinate the brake pedal with the trailer brakes, through the trailer electric plug. (Some newer model trucks come factory installed- known as an “Integrated Brake Controller”)

 ◆ Bumper Pull Hitches: Hitches are specific to tow vehicles – year and make – and are generally not interchangeable. Reese/Draw Tite/Hidden Hitch are all made by the same company (CequentTowing Products) and are of exact quality and specifications.

 ◆ Gooseneck Hitches
— Plate Hitch – permanent ball in the truck bed ($350-500 Installed
— Turnover Ball/Hideaway – ball lays flat in bed when not in use ($1150-$1350 Installed depending on vehicle)

 SUV Issues

 ◆ Wheelbase – the longer the better (Suburban/Yukon XL 2500, Tahoe 1500 – 108”+)
 ◆ Suspension – Heavy Duty for Towing
 ◆ Transmission Cooling System for Towing
 ◆ Brakes – create big problem when towing with smaller SUV (Jeep Grand Cherokee/Ford Explorer)
 ◆ Weight Distribution Hitches – can increase towing capacity from 3500 lb. to 5000 lb. and 5000 lb. to 7500 lb., 7500 lb. to 10,000 lb. depending on vehicle
 ◆ Sway Control Bars – can be used with or without a Weight Distribution Hitch
 ◆ 3500 lb. – 5000 lb. capacity – cannot pull two full-size horses – trailer without dressing room will weigh 2600 lb. – 3200 lb. + 1200 lb. horse = 4400 lb., with dressing room 3200 lb. – 3500 lb. + 1200 lb. horse = 4700 lb.
 ◆ 6500 lb. – 7500 lb. capacity needed to pull two horses, with or without dressing room. The lower end capacity will probably require a Weight Distribution Hitch.

Truck Issues

 ◆ 1500 (also known as a ½ ton) – with a towing package (heavy duty suspension and transmission cooling system for towing) may pull up to a 3-Horse Bumper Pull Slant (up to 4200 lb. trailer + 3500 lb. in three horses = 7800 lb. capacity needed)
 ◆ 2-Horse Bumper Pull w/Dress & Side Ramp (3700 lb. + 2400 lb. in two horses = 6100 lb. capacity needed)
 ◆ 2500 (also known as a ¾ ton) – must have transmission cooling system and heavy-duty
suspension – may pull up to a 4 horse GN trailer (weight 6700 lb. – 7500 lb. + 4800 lb. in four horses = 12,300 lb. capacity needed). Some newer 2500 (3/4 ton) trucks will pull as much as a 3500 (1 ton) depending on the transmission and cooling system – must check capacities with the manufacturer. Newer models may have up to 15000 lb. towing capacity.
 ◆ 3500 (also known as a 1 ton) is generally required for more than four horses and should be a Dual Wheel if the trailer is 8’ wide – for balance.

Problem with Newer, Taller Trucks and Older Gooseneck?

Beginning in approximately 2011-2013 (depending on manufacturer), new trucks have been coming out of the factory with the bed/tailgate height taller and taller off the ground. There is no logical explanation or justification for this drastic change in design and specifications.

Example: Our 2003 Dodge 3500 (1 ton) single wheel measured 52 ½” at the highest point of the bed sides and tailgate. Our 2015 Chevrolet 2500 (3/4 ton) measures 58 ½” at the highest point of the bed sides and tailgate. This additional 6” in height, reduces the clearance from the tallest point of the sides & tailgate to the bottom of the gooseneck frame rail on any older gooseneck trailer.

Trailer manufacturers began to rectify this problem by building the gooseneck frame rails further off the ground (approximately 2011-2013 to present), but not universally. If a trailer is leveled correctly (with the front of the empty trailer 2” higher off the ground than the rear of the trailer), there needs to be a minimum of 6” clearance, when the trailer is hooked to and carrying the tongue weight of the trailer, from the highest point of the bed sides & tailgate to the lowest point of the gooseneck frame rail.

The only two ways to make an older gooseneck fit under a newer truck are:

◆ If the trailer has rubber torsion axles (not steel spring axles) then the axles can be removed and up to a 3” piece of channel steel can be welded between the axle box and the top of the reattached axles (Cost $600-$800 depending on how the torsion axles are attached to the trailer). This will gain up to 3” of clearance, safely, while maintaining correct balance. The negative is that this additional trailer height, off the ground, will make a step-up higher for loading and unloading or it will make a ramp steeper off the ground.

◆ Removing the bed of the truck and replacing it with a flat bed, will negate this clearance issue entirely. The negative is that the utilitarian features of truck bed sides is lost.

Extending an adjustable gooseneck coupler will not solve this problem. Adjusting the coupler to make it longer will increase the clearance distance between the top of the bed/tail gate and the gooseneck frame, however, it will cause the trailer to no longer be level. When the coupler is extended, the front of the trailer will be significantly higher off the ground than the rear of the trailer, putting dangerous excess weight on the rear axles and tires. This can cause tires to blow out and/or rear axles to bend (a blow out, especially when a trailer is loaded with livestock is terrifying and exceedingly dangerous). Often fenders are also destroyed during a tire blow out. Replacing a bent axle can cost between $600- $1200, not counting replacing any tires that may have been damaged by running on a bent axle.

Trailer Height and Width Make a Difference

Horses are claustrophobic by nature so the bigger the trailer, the better it is for the horse. Most trailers are built 6’ wide or 6’8” to 7’ wide and 7’ tall or 7’6 to 7’8” tall.

You need to make sure you get the size trailer for your Pony or Horse. They are a few things you must take into consideration.

1. Ponies and horses up to 15.2 hands will be okay in a 7’ tall trailer.
2. Anything above that you should have in a 7’6 + tall trailer.
3. The width depends. If you have a narrow horse, then 6’ wide is okay, but if you are a fox hunter and like to travel with the saddle on, you will need a 6’8 wide.

Gooseneck or Bumper Pull Trainer?

Trailer shopping requires many decisions. The most important decision to make when purchasing a trailer is the type of trailer – gooseneck or bumper pull. Each type of trailer has pros and cons. You will be able to use this information to decide which type of trailer is right for you.

Bumper Pull Trailers

The most common type of hitch is the bumper pull hitch. This name is slightly misleading because the hitch is not actually connected to the bumper. A bumper pull connects to a ball hitch that comes out from the vehicles frame. Because this type of hitch is so common, this type of trailer is ideal for a first-time trailer owner. Many first-time trailer owners really appreciate that a bumper pull has a normal turn radius, meaning the trailer follows the towing vehicle as it makes a turn.

Bumper pull trailers are smaller than gooseneck trailers which means they are usually more affordable. Many vehicles can pull a bumper pull trailer, so you are not necessarily restricted to a pickup truck. Larger SUVs with a long wheelbase and a low center of gravity are the safest tow vehicles for these trailers.

Bumper pull trailers are smaller, so you are limited on space for living quarters, dressing room, and number of animals that can be hauled. Not only can space be an issue, but weight can be as well. These trailers have weight restrictions so you need to know what you will be hauling and what your vehicle is capable of towing as well.

Gooseneck Trailers

Gooseneck trailers are much different than bumper pulls. A gooseneck trailer attaches to a ball hitch that is in the bed of a pickup. The trailer’s tongue weight is over the truck’s rear axle when hitched up, rather than that of a bumper pull which is at the back of the frame. This reduces the amount of sway and vibration, especially if the trailer hits a bump or pothole in the road.

Because gooseneck trailers offer more stability, they can handle much more weight than a bumper pull. This allows gooseneck trailers to have more space for living quarters, animals, etc. A gooseneck trailer also has a tighter turn radius. This lets the driver cut corners tighter than you could with a bumper pull making it significantly more maneuverable in tight spaces.

Because goosenecks are larger, they are generally more expensive than a bumper pull. Not only are the trailers themselves more, but a larger truck is required to haul the trailer. Most trucks do not come equipped with a gooseneck hitch. Blue Ridge can install a gooseneck hitch for you if you decide a gooseneck trailer is best for you and your horse.

As you can tell, both types of trailers have pros and cons depending on what you need. Choose the trailer that is right for you based on what you are hauling. You want the best ride to optimize your trailering experience. If you are not 100% sure what type of trailer would be best suited for you, your horse and your hauling vehicle, our staff would be honored to talk with you. Contact us today!

Do You Need Insurance for Your Trailer?

Having the right trailer insurance is important not only when a crisis strikes, but also for your peace of mind while traveling with your four-legged best friend and/or expensive equipment.

Yet many people drive for years with inadequate coverage, only discovering the holes in their insurance plan when it’s too late. Of course, every situation is different depending on your trailer, horse and/or livestock, other cargo/equipment and travel needs. That’s why it’s so important to communicate with your insurance agent so you know you have the right coverage for your circumstances.

Here are some key questions to ask your agent regarding horse trailer insurance:

1. Do I have comprehensive/collision coverage?

One of the biggest misconceptions we see among trailer owners: they know their tow vehicle insurance extends to their trailer, but don’t realize that the insurance only covers liability—not damage or theft.

In other words, they’re covered for costs involving damage to someone else’s property or injuries caused by their trailer. But they’re not covered for the cost of damage to their trailer and trailer contents in an accident, storm or other crisis.

To protect your trailer, you’ll want to ask your insurance agent about comprehensive and collision coverage. This can protect your trailer in cases of damage, theft, vandalism, and more.

Most vehicle insurance companies will simply add an endorsement to your existing policy, which extends comprehensive and collision coverage to your trailer. This is typically a minor expense per year. If your insurer requires a separate policy for the trailer—rather than merely adding a trailer endorsement—then you should shop around (In this situation, Virginia residents should consider pricing a policy with their local Farm Bureau agent. Farm Bureau offers several different coverage’s that you might want to consider.) Adding a standalone policy can be very expensive- so shopping might very well pay off.

2. Are the contents of my trailer covered?

You don’t just want to protect your trailer, but also your property inside it. Ask your insurance agent whether your trailer contents would be covered in cases of damage or theft. Your Homeowner’s policy might cover trailer contents, rather than your vehicle policy (even though you have obtained comprehensive and collision for your trailer) in the case of accident or theft, ask your agent.

Be aware that “trailer contents” refers to equipment and gear, not your horse itself. You may want to consider a policy to cover your horse(s). The major national companies offering equine insurance are Taylor Harris, EMO, Marshall & Sterling and Markel. There may also be coverage available in your area from a more local company.

3. What will happen if I have a breakdown with my horse in the trailer?

Here’s something I learned the hard way. Some insurance companies (and roadside assistance companies like AAA) will tow your vehicle if you have a breakdown but won’t extend roadside service to your trailer.

It is incredibly stressful to have a horse in a trailer on the side of the highway, under the sun, and no way to get it moved off the highway and to a safe place. Ask your insurance agent and/or roadside assistance company whether your trailer and horse(s) will be covered for breakdown services, and if not, you might consider looking into another policy with a company that offers national roadside equine services.

4. Is my trailer covered when it’s parked?

It’s easy to forget that trailer problems don’t just happen on the road. Ask your insurance agent how you’re covered in the case of storm damage, fire, and theft when your trailer is parked. If you store your trailer on someone else’s property or farm, you’ll also want to know how that impacts your coverage.

The post What Do You Need to Know When You Buy a Trailer? appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

German state-certified Master Saddler Jochen Schleese of Schleese Saddlery has devoted his life to designing saddles that protect horses and riders from long-term damage.

“Horses do not consciously behave poorly,” Schleese says. “The horse can react very fast to a very small amount of pressure when it’s in the wrong spot.”

Thankfully, advances in technology have greatly benefitted the saddle-fitting industry. Cameras, infrared heat mapping and equine treadmills equip saddle fitters to understand horses’ saddle fit needs better than ever.

Signs of Damage

Recognizing the signs of an ill-fitting saddle is the first step toward making a change. According to Schleese, the pressure it takes to crush a grape between your fingers is enough to irritate a horse.

Ill-fitting saddles can pinch nerves, cause muscle atrophy, and make horses numb as they work. Think of pinching your skin with your fingernails: after a while, the pain and irritation is dulled, but the injury is there.

An ill-fitting saddle can first cause wither blisters, which are raised bumps on or near the withers during riding. Dry spots (within the saddle sweat stain) on the back and withers after exercise, as well as white hair growth, indicate something is wrong. Both of these signs occur when intense pressure is applied to the skin. They are precursors to cartilage degradation in the shoulders, withers and back—an unfixable problem.

Aside from the comfort and happiness of the horse, a well-fitting saddle reduces stress.

“When a horse is experiencing [pain], the heart rate goes up, releasing [the stress hormone] cortisol in the blood,” says Schleese. “[Cortisol] means high risk of colic and ulcers.”

While there are several factors that go into fitting a saddle to a horse, Schleese says that understanding three main points of fitting will set horse owners on the right path.

1. Withers and Gullet Width

Riders learn that a saddle should never touch the top of the withers, but don’t realize the sides of the withers are also incredibly sensitive.

“The top is just bone and cartilage, but the sides have all these nerves,” Schleese says. “In nature, this is where stallions bite each other. If a horse is bitten there, he will stop moving forward. It ignites the nerves.”

Horses with saddles that pinch their withers show reluctance to move forward and they hollow their backs, making it impossible to perform in a safe and athletic manner. More stress is put on the tendons in their legs as they move awkwardly, trying to relieve the pinching sensation the saddle applies to the withers.

Use a pencil to determine if the saddle is wide enough for the horse’s shoulders. Test this with the saddle resting on the horse with no saddle pad. Take a pencil and slide it under the sides of the saddle; the pencil should slide easily and evenly with continuous contact between horse and saddle.

The withers need 4 inches of clearance on top and 2 to 3 inches around the sides to keep from compromising the muscles and nerves in the area. Saddles that are too narrow will pinch this area, while saddles that are too wide will fall downward and “crush” the withers and the shoulders.

Think of wearing a shoe that is too big or small. If the shoe is too small, your toes are cramped. Too big, and your toes slam into the front of the shoe while running because there is nothing holding your foot in the correct position.

2. Weight Distribution and Saddle Length

Balance is one of the most important factors in saddle fitting. Having a saddle that fits well at the withers with even contact down the back is vital. Saddle bars are meant to support your weight and distribute it over your horse’s back muscles, but a horse that is under-muscled or overly fat might experience the bars pressing harder in some places, causing stress.

According to Schleese, an English saddle’s bars begin at the front D-ring and extend all the way down the saddle. On a western saddle, which is designed to have things attach to it for trail rides and ranching needs, the weight-supporting bars begin at the first concho and end where the seat connects to the skirt.

The bars should sit between the end of the mane, where the shoulder blade often ends, and the “ring of light,” which is where the hair glows in a curved line on the back. The ring of light signifies a transition from the horse’s full ribs to his lumbar (lower back) vertebrae, which have flat transverse processes that are not connected to the sternum with a rib, and should not bear weight.

To check a saddle’s length, Schleese marks a horse with chalk where the mane ends and the ring of light begins, puts the saddle on without a pad, and sees where the bars of the saddle end in correlation to the chalk marks. The bars should be within the marks.

3. Bar Angles

As horses age, they change shape. Starting with round barrels, horses become more angled as they work and build muscle. This is because their rib cages are suspended by muscles instead of a skeletal structure. Their posture changes as they grow and learn to use their bodies to support weight and carry themselves well. Their shoulder blades move upwards and back as they build muscles.

When fitting a horse, consider age and level of work. A young horse will likely need flatter bars, while a well-trained older horse will need a saddle with steeper bars.

Saddle Fitting to the Rider

Fitting a saddle can often take a horse-focused turn, but remember that you are an important part of the equation for a more thoughtful saddle-fitting process.

The anatomical differences between a man and woman make for some surprising saddle seat variations. Sitting in a gender-inappropriate saddle is uncomfortable, and if you’re protecting yourself from discomfort, you will experience tension and a jerky rhythm will translate down to the horse and affect his performance.

Men have straighter lower backs, longer tailbones, and lower buttocks. This means they need a flatter saddle seat that will allow them to keep their heels under themselves while riding.

In contrast, women have more lower back curvature, a shorter tailbone, and higher buttocks. The higher buttock muscles mean that in a flat saddle seat, a woman’s pelvis will rotate backwards, giving the appearance of a rounded back. A saddle made for a woman will have more rise in the back of the seat, giving the buttocks a comfortable boost and allowing the spine to remain in its natural position.

Jochen Schleese’s Motivation

Jochen Schleese has been working to build better saddles for both horse and rider since 1982. His passion stems from a personal experience with his Hanoverian gelding, Pirat. A three-day eventer, Schleese and Pirat qualified for the 1984 European Championships. Unfortunately, due to lameness in the left shoulder, Pirat and Schleese dropped out of the competition.

“He started to have a little bit of an irregular step,” says Schleese. “And when you compete for your country, you’re under a microscope. Disqualification happens because [the horse] is not 100 percent sound.”

The team veterinarians tried everything to help Pirat stay comfortable, but he was eventually retired. Looking back, Schleese is certain that the saddle caused Pirat’s pain, and his experience helped him start a new chapter in his saddle-making career.

Through his educational company Saddlefit 4 Life, Schleese teaches hundreds of people every year about saddle fit and certifies equine ergonomists, independent experts who use precise measurements and science to analyze the fit of a saddle to horse and rider. The Schleese team has helped over 200,000 horses worldwide over the years, and they believe that education is key to making the necessary changes in the industry.

Hear more of Schleese’s insight on saddle fitting in this episode of Barn Banter.

Saddle fit is unique, and one size never fits all. With basic knowledge, it’s easier to pick out a saddle that fits your horse and eliminates unnecessary pain.

This article about saddle fitting appeared in the April 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Everything You Need to Know About Saddle Fitting appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Medical Guardian Pendant, Clip-on or Watch

Features GPS location and two-way communication.

◆ Health monitoring: No
◆ Fall-detection: Yes, with pendant and clip-on (not available
with watch).
◆ Cell connection $40/month (advanced
features extra)
◆ Available at www.medicalguardian.com

Garmin inReach

Satellite communication messenger is perfect for remote areas without cell service. Features GPS location, SOS activation and texting, tracking.
◆ Health monitoring: No
◆ Fall detection: No
◆ $449.99; requires a subscription starting at $12/month ◆ Available at www.garmin.com

Kanega Watch

The primary function of this watch is fall detection. Alerts automatically or by voice or panic button on watch. Standalone device includes cellular connection. Features GPS location and two-way communication.

◆ $199 set-up and $60/month if paying for one year up front
◆ Available at www.unaliwear.com

Apple SE Watch

Features GPS location, two-way communication, SOS calling, compass.

◆ Fall detection: Yes
◆ Cell connection: Yes
◆ Apps: Apple products only (iOS system). Apps must first be downloaded onto iPhone.
◆ $249
◆ Available at www.apple.com

FitBit Versa 3

Features GPS location, two-way communication, health monitoring (heart rate, blood oxygen, et cetera).

◆ Fall detection: Yes
◆ Cell connection: Yes
◆ Apps: Works with both Android and Apple. Apps must first be downloaded onto a smartphone.
◆ $169.95
◆ Available at www.fitbit.com

ACR Electronics Bivy Stick

Satellite messenger with GPS location, SOS activation, two-way messaging, navigation, and pre-loaded maps.

◆ Health monitoring: No
◆ Fall detection: No
◆ $249.95; requires subscription starting at $14/month
◆ Available at www.acrartex.com

ACR Electronics ResQLink 400

Personal locator beacon used solely to send an SOS via satellite in an emergency (there is no option to cancel the SOS). Does not send or receive messages.

◆ Health monitoring: No
◆ Fall detection: No
◆ Must register with NOAA Search and Rescue (no fee). $359.95
◆ Available at www.acrartex.com

Samsung Galaxy Watch 4

Features GPS location, two-way communication, health
monitoring (ECG, blood pressure, heart rate, body
composition, sleep quality).

◆ Fall detection: Yes
◆ Cell connection: Yes
◆ Apps: Android apps only. Apps must first be downloaded
onto smartphone.
◆ $170-$400, depending on cosmetic features;
◆ Available at www.samsung.com

Apps & More

Horse Rider SOS

For iPhone and Android. Activate when you begin your ride. If you stop moving, it sends an alert, which you can cancel. Free; in-app purchases.

FallCall

For Apple products. A high-impact fall triggers alert to EMS. Low impact sends a message to your contacts list. FallCall Lite is a voice-activated system for Apple and Android. Subscriptions required. Free; in-app purchases.

Man Down

App for iPhone. It alerts if the app user stops moving. It can be configured to monitor heartrate, trip tracking, and other movement. Free.

RoadiD

App sends real-time info to a contact list of locations. Alerts if it detects non-movement. Wearer can also initiate an alert. Free; in-app purchases.

ID-MyHorse

ID-MyHorse provides two lightweight leather tags with a form for vital information about the rider and the horse. They can be carried on the rider and braided into the horse’s mane. $20; www.ID-MyHorse.com

This article about emergency alerts for equestrians appeared in the August 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Emergency Alerts for Equestrians appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

No matter which type of muzzle you choose, it’s important to know a few things:

◆ The length of the pasture grass will affect how a muzzle works. If grass is very short, the horse’s teeth won’t be able to grasp it through the hole in the bottom of the muzzle.

◆ Horses should not wear muzzles 24/7, so a modified turnout schedule may be necessary.

◆ Muzzle use can affect herd dynamics; adjustments to turnout groups may be needed.

The original plastic basket-style grazing muzzles have seen many design upgrades to help keep them in place with less rubbing. Here’s a look at some of the different options on the market today.

Best Friend Grazing Muzzle

$39.99-$59.99; available from most online tack shops

Features:
◆ Multiple sizes available
◆ Comes with breakaway halter for improved safety
◆ Higher sides make it more difficult for horses to remove
◆ Five adjustment points
◆ Padded noseband helps prevent rubs
◆ Synthetic material deters mildew and rot

ThinLine Flexible Filly

$68.00; thinlineglobal.com

Features:
◆ Lighter and softer than other muzzles
◆ Durable yet pliable
◆ Easy on equine teeth
◆ Less restrictive of behaviors like mutual grooming
◆ Well-ventilated
◆ Size of grazing hole is customizable
◆ Has UV protection for sensitive skin
◆ Comes with six-month warranty

Green Guard

$99.95; gg-equine.com

Features:
◆ Less likely to rub
◆ Larger holes along basket allow moisture and debris to move through
◆ Multiple sizes available
◆ Drains water well after drinking
◆ Durable and lightweight
◆ Made of strong plastic material
◆ One-year warranty for breakage or wear
◆ Adjustable

Tough1 Easy Breathe

Mini to draft sizes available, $37.88-$52.88;
jtidist.com

Features:
◆ Large breathing holes for comfort
◆ Short sides offer improved airflow
◆ Bottom of muzzle is extra thick
◆ Added attachments available for ponies
◆ Can be purchased with or without attached halter

Best Friend Have a Heart Muzzle

$56.99; intrepidintl.com

Features:
◆ Adjustable noseband for hard-to-fit horses
◆ V-strap makes it harder to remove
◆ Two breakaway buckles for safety
◆ Durable

Shires Deluxe Comfort

$39.99; shop.shiresequestrian.com

Features:
◆ Cut-back design to avoid pressure points under chin
◆ Fleece padding around nose to protect delicate structures
◆ D-ring allows lead rope to be attached to muzzle
◆ Head and throat snap have anti-chafe padding
◆ Fully adjustable breakaway harness
◆ Taller sides of muzzle mean less chance for horses to remove it

Harmany Grazing Muzzle

$57.99-$98.99; shop.harmanyequine.com

Features:
◆ Crafted from strong plastic
◆ Hole size can be customized
◆ Moldable in hot water to each horse’s unique shape
◆ Lightweight and breathable
◆ Multiple sizes available
◆ Mold-resistant

This article about grazing muzzles appeared in the March 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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