Go horseback riding through the Italian island of Sicily, spanning six days with lots of long canters, wine tastings and delicious food.
We dip our toes into the water of the medieval wash house, tour the Duomo di Cefalù (Cefalù Cathedral), peruse the artisan shops, and cool down with a gelato cone.
Next, we drive what seems uphill the whole way to Luogo Marchese, where Luciano’s 26 horses reside. A multiple-course meal is followed by a quick swim in the pool before retiring for the night.
Day One
The valley below the 80-hectare (almost 200-acre) ranch illuminates with the rising sun. Luciano’s small stable, nestled on the side of a mountain, boasts an ocean view. The herd is primarily Sicilian horses, once a mix of African and Asian breeds, now more refined with Andalusian and Thoroughbred bloodlines.
Luciano chooses Aron, a mid-sized Sicilian gelding for me, and a tall, long-legged Andalusian mix named Romeo for my travel mate, Anne.
As we descend into the countryside, the blue sea gradually disappears behind us. Apricots and figs are easily picked from trees that border the olive and grape farms. Sheep and cattle bells rhythmically chime from pastures as we climb to a large stone water basin where the horses drink.
A forest of 80-year-old cork trees leads us to the village of Castelbuono, where Luciano’s assistant, Gimmy, has our picnic lunch waiting. A two-hour break allows the hottest part of the day to pass before we continue through the village, where a lively soccer game is taking place.
At Casale Villa Rainò, a family-run 1830s restored stone villa near the town of Gangi, we enjoy a multi-course meal and a swim in the pool under the stars.
Day Two
We awake to spectacular panoramic views of Mount Etna and the Madonie Mountains from our balcony.
As we ride toward the town of Gangi, hailed as the most beautiful village in Italy, we pass family gardens of tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and squash, while snacking on ripe almonds, blackberries and crab apples hanging from reachable branches.
A gray mare gallops towards us for a visit. Luciano quickly dismounts to catch the horse for her 70-year-old owner, who is walking toward us with two canes.
“He still rides the mare on his small cow farm,” Luciano tells us.
Large trees at an ancient stone monastery overlooking Gangi provide shade for our picnic lunch. Grain for the horses is supplied in sacks that hang over their heads, like muzzles.
The route includes a brief ride on a busy road, but the horses remain calm as tour buses, trucks and tractors pass. A massive highway bridge towers above us as we follow the Imera River Valley to a dirt road where we enjoy a wonderfully long canter through a forest of eucalyptus trees.
Arriving at Feudo Tudia Villa, a formerly abandoned, now-restored farmhouse in the sparsely populated village of Resuttano, we dismount and leave our horses in Gimmy’s care. He joins us later for a home cooked, multi-course meal.
Day Three
As we leave the village of Resuttanno the next day, a small lake in a valley spotted with olive trees looks like an Italian painting as we clip clop over stone Roman roads and bridges.
We picnic and nap in the shade of the Marianopoli train station before heading out in the afternoon. A colorful sunset leads us to Mappa, a delightful villa in Mussomeli, where I join others for a glass of wine overlooking the pool and valley below.
We’re the only ones in the villa, making us feel like the royalty that once stayed here. Fall is the down time for tourism on the island, and Luciano tells me that he created his progressive rides “to keep the horses busy in the off season and help out the family-owned villas in the rural areas.”
Day Four
The fields are brown and dry due to a recent drought, and crossing a large, mud-cracked field feels like riding on the moon.
The ancient city of Sutera at the base of Monte San Paolino—a giant monolithic rock—comes into view. An elevator to the monastery was once built to attract tourists to the area, but unfortunately never opened. It’s a hot day, and as we lunch just outside the village, Luciano sprays us with small water pistols.
The Monte Conca nature reserve provides shady forests and picturesque river crossings before we arrive at the lovely family-run, 8-hectare (20-acre) Villa Casale Leto.
The Leto family purchased the property in 1990, and after years of renovations and vine planting, opened to the public in 2008. We taste their Nero D’Avola and Chardonnay wines with a delicious home-cooked meal.
Day Five
The sunrise reflects on the pool, and we enjoy a morning swim before breakfast.
There are threats of rain on our second-to-last day in the saddle, but it holds out, allowing for lovely long canters on dirt roads. All nine of us are extremely happy with our mounts, who have carried us approximately 35 km (22 miles) each day.
Views of endless hills, harvested wheat fields, and valleys of olive and grape orchards take us to the Tower of Anjou, an ancient aristocratic mansion from the 13th century. We arrive early to our villa in Aragona, allowing time for a swim. The panoramic views of the countryside from our terrace are spectacular.
Day Six
Our last day brings us to the ancient city of Agrigento, founded in 581 B.C. by Greek colonists, as we clip clop through the narrow passageways on the cobblestone streets.
Residents stand in their doorways and lean out their windows to wave at us. We feel the breeze of the south coastal waters as we ride past the Valley of the Temples.
Arriving at Amici del Cavallo, a small farm that takes tourists on a ride to the ancient ruins, we dismount and are welcomed with a barbecue lunch.
The trailers soon arrive, and with heavy hearts, we say goodbye to our horses. The setting sun lights up the ancient ruins as we tour the ruins in the Valley of the Temples.
It was a trip like no other, and after an exquisite meal in a local seafood restaurant in Agrigento with Luciano and Paola, we say our goodbyes to each other, but know that we will ride together again.
We’re thankful for Luciano, Paola and Gimmy’s endless hospitality, the families who welcomed us into their villas, and the wonderful Sicilian horses who made this trip unforgettable.
This article about riding horseback through Sicily appeared in the June 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!
