It’s often what you can’t see that leads to trouble, and that’s definitely the case with white line disease. Understanding the nature of this condition, its signs, and effective treatment options will help horse owners to ensure the long-term health of their equine companions.

Treatment is highly successful when this condition is caught in the early stages. Unfortunately, white line disease is often not detected promptly. This may lead to serious problems—sometimes even to the point of coffin bone rotation. However, most horses with white line disease aren’t lame unless the condition is allowed to progress to this stage.

The name “white line disease” is a bit misleading, since not all cases involve the actual white line of the hoof, which is where the sole joins the wall. When identified early and treated effectively, many cases are generally restricted to the “stratum medium”—the middle and thickest of the hoof’s three layers.

What is White Line Disease?

Technically, white line disease is not a disease, but rather a fungal infection of the equine hoof wall.

Infection develops when opportunistic fungi routinely present in the environment find an opening in the hoof wall. Once in the hoof, the fungi work their way up, digesting the keratin until a cavity is created beneath the wall.

Although the sensitive tissue of the hoof isn’t involved, the hoof wall separation caused by white line disease can have major consequences.

If left untreated, hoof integrity can be compromised to the point that the coffin bone pulls away from the hoof capsule and rotates. Although this is not exactly the same rotation that occurs with laminitis, it can still result in lameness.

Signs of White Line Disease

White line disease can affect horses of any breed, age, and discipline, infecting one or more feet at the same time. The following signs are associated with the condition and indicate a problem is brewing:

◆ Cracks or separation in the hoof at the toe, heel, along the wall or along the white line

◆ Debris packed deeply into the hoof wall

◆ Chalky, grayish-white powder visible between the hoof’s sole and wall

◆ “Rotten fruit” odor

◆ Significant flaring or dishing of the foot

◆ Hollow sound when outside of hoof is lightly tapped with a hammer

After operating his own farrier business for 11 years in Ohio, Jason Maki has been the full-time farrier at the Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences’ Large Animal Hospital in College Station, Texas, since 2008.

Maki points out the puzzling conundrum that horses receiving exceptional hoof care and living in well-managed barns can still get white line disease, as can backyard horses on inconsistent hoof care schedules.

“Sometimes a hoof that is dishing and flared is a sign of separation under the wall caused by white line disease,” says Maki.

He adds that hooves that become dished and flared because they’re allowed to get too long between trims may become more susceptible to this condition.

Maki agrees with the study published by Michael Wildenstein, Certified Journeyman Farrier, of Cornell University that identified fungal infection being to blame for white line disease. He notes that while specific fungi may be the primary cause of action, they can’t cause harm unless they get inside the foot.

“Essentially, there has to be a break or a micro crack in the hoof wall that allows the fungi to ‘set up shop,’” he explains. “The fungi are ingesting the hoof and create a pocket. The longer they’re present in the hoof, the more they will undermine it.”

The presence of grayish powder in any separation between sole and wall seems to be definitive of white line disease.

“The powder is disintegrating hoof wall,” says Maki, adding that if you see this when cleaning your horse’s hooves, you should contact your farrier promptly.

How to Treat White Line Disease

Wildenstein’s study revealed that the anerobic fungi responsible for white line disease can be effectively treated with a chlorine dioxide solution.

The basic protocol for treating white line disease is to debride the affected area, removing the damaged hoof wall to expose the infected portion of the hoof to air and then treating the area with chlorine dioxide. Because chlorine dioxide makes fungi and bacteria vulnerable to oxygen, this helps destroy them.

Maki points out that simply squirting a chlorine dioxide product up into the cavity isn’t enough. The infected portion of hoof wall must be removed.

“You follow the tract (cavity) as far as it extends and cut it out until the gray powder is not visible and you have good attachment to the hoof wall,” says Maki.

He is one of many farriers who have had great success treating the condition with a chlorine dioxide (ClO₂) product. Maki personally swears by White Lightning equine hoof treatment.

“In my experience, debridement followed by White Lightning is the silver bullet for treating white line disease,” says Maki. “The chlorine dioxide gas infiltrates the hoof, gets into the nooks and crannies, and kills the fungi. If I even suspect white line disease, I use this to treat it.”

Challenges of Treatment

When caught early, your farrier can usually treat white line disease effectively at home. More complicated cases can require your veterinarian and farrier working together.

“Depending on how extensive white line disease is, or if the horse is lame, you’ll want to get your veterinarian involved,” says Maki. “White line disease shows up on a radiograph as bright white, so it gives you a good idea of the extent of erosion and also shows any rotation.”

When white line disease isn’t found and treated early, the farrier may have to cut away a significant portion of hoof wall to totally expose the affected area.

“You want to take only what you have to and leave enough wall to treat the hoof. If you have a deep white line tract but still have good attachment of the hoof wall, the hoof is less likely to splay,” says Maki, noting that the tricky part can be providing enough stability that the cure doesn’t become a problem.

Maki explains that if extensive sections of hoof wall have to be cut away, steps must be taken to stabilize the foot until new wall grows in. This may involve special shoeing techniques.

“You need to make sure the horse has good mechanical support of the hoof capsule,” he notes. “Managing extensive white line disease without a shoe or cast is problematic. I’ve found bar shoes, heart bar shoes, sole support, and clips to be useful for adding stability to the hoof and minimizing the chance of mechanical rotation due to instability.” 

Environmental Considerations and Prevention

While the fungi to blame for white line disease are present in many environments, Maki has dealt with more cases when horses live in regions where the weather is warm and wet without extended periods of freezing temperatures.

While he says there’s no definitive answer as to whether some horses are simply more susceptible to white line disease, environmental conditions play a role.

Horses can’t be expected to have optimal hoof health if their feet are constantly exposed to moisture. When feet never get the chance to dry out, continuous moisture can compromise the hooves by softening and weakening them. This makes hooves more vulnerable to cracking and separation, which can allow in fungi and bacteria.

The goal is to keep hooves as dry as possible. This may mean waiting to turn out until the grass is dry and not turning out during wet weather.

Maki reminds horse owners that basic routine hoof care with short cycles between farrier visits is crucial for protecting horses against white line disease. He emphasizes that it’s always best to keep horses on a regular farrier schedule, even during times of the year when their hooves aren’t growing quickly.

White Line Disease In Summary

White line disease poses a serious risk to horses, requiring vigilant monitoring and prompt treatment to prevent severe consequences. Though it can affect any horse, early detection and proper hoof care significantly enhance treatment success. By adhering to a proactive care routine and consulting with experienced farriers and veterinarians, horse owners can effectively safeguard their horses against this condition.

Further Reading on Hoof Health
◆ Helping Your Horse Have Healthy Hooves
◆ Nutrition for Hoof Health
◆ 5 Serious Hoof Conditions
◆ Keeping Your Horse Barefoot

This article appeared in the August 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post An Overview of White Line Disease appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Soaking the hoof several times a day will eventually cause an abscess to erupt and drain. However, some vets now advise against frequent soaking as it may weaken the hoof wall. Some horse owners instead choose to apply drawing agents, such as ichthamol or Epsom salts, directly to the hoof under a bandage.

The goal in the treatment of a horse’s hoof abscess is to draw out the infection and keep the area clean to prevent reinfection while the hoof heals. Once you have confirmed the diagnosis with your vet, follow the steps below to put your horse on the road to recovery.

For treatment of a horse’s hoof abscess, you will need a flexible bucket or tub, Epsom salts and poultice pads or iodine. Bandaging materials include sheet cotton or a diaper, elastic bandage and duct tape.

Step 1:  Mix Epsom salts in a bucket of warm water.  Use enough salts to reach the point of saturation, where no more will dissolve.

Step 2:  Submerge the entire hoof up to the coronary band and soak for 10 minutes.  This will help draw out the infection and will encourage the abscess to erupt if it has not already been opened and drained.

Step 3:  Soak a poultice pad in hot water.

Place the pad over the sole of the hoof.

If you do not have any poultice pads, you can make a poultice with Epsom salts and iodine.

Pack the paste into the hoof so it covers the entire sole.

Step 4:  Wrap the hoof in a diaper or sheet cotton.  Secure the diaper by tightly wrapping it with elastic bandage. Cover the entire bandage with duct tape for durability. If your horse will be turned out or is prone to destroying bandages, you may want to use a hoof boot.   Click here for step-by-step instructions on bandaging a hoof.

Your horse may be sound in as little as a couple of days.  Once the abscess has drained, keeping the hoof protected from dirt and debris is the best way to avoid complications or reinfection.  And of course, always consult your vet to help you decide the best course of action. 

Further Reading on Treatment of Hoof Abscesses in Horses

◆ Hoof Abscesses and Puncture Wounds
◆ How to Manage and Treat a Hoof Abscess
◆ Causes of Equine Lameness: Foot Abscess

This article about treatment of hoof abscesses first appeared in Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Treating a Hoof Abscess appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Some horses can go barefoot even while being ridden regularly, while others depend on shoes to stay sound under a heavy workload or in challenging terrain. There are also horses who are barefoot much of the time, and only use shoes or alternative hoof wear as needed.

There is no single absolute solution for every horse, but if you’ve considered having your horse go barefoot, learn more about the process to determine if your horse is a good candidate.

Education and Commitment

You might be surprised to find going shoeless is as much about the owner as it is about the horse.

Both time and commitment are required for a horse to successfully transition out of shoes to barefoot. The process only works well when the owner is willing take responsibility and do what is necessary to help the horse grow and maintain healthy feet, according to Keith “K.C.” La Pierre, MAEP, RJF, CF, a prominent equine podiatrist, whose Institute of Applied Equine Podiatry, Inc. is based in Ocala, Fla.

As developer of Applied Equine Podiatry (AEP) and the High Performance Trim Balance Method (HPT), La Pierre grades horses’ feet using a “spectrum of usability.” Simply put, this evaluates internal and external structures of the foot to gauge what forces the foot can withstand and stay strong.

Normal Hoof Function

The healthy bare hoof is constantly contracting and flexing as it comes in contact with the ground. This distortion, or continual changing of shape, is how the foot interacts with varying surfaces. In essence, the hoof is designed to function as a shock absorber.

When a healthy foot is confined to a rigid horseshoe, this limits distortion, but the foot needs to distort to function properly. Nailing shoes to the feet prevents them from flexing under impact and interferes with the hoof’s natural ability to absorb shock.

Factors to Consider

People often think the word “environment” refers to geography. Although geographic location contributes to the whole picture, a horse’s environment includes how he is kept (stall, dirt lot, pasture), exercise, nutrition, hydration and how much stress he’s under regularly.

Look closely at your management and feeding practices:

◆ You should be feeding a balanced diet at appropriate amounts to maintain your horse at optimal weight.

◆ Good hydration (fresh, cool water readily available 24/7) is crucial. More than half of the foot is cartilage and highly dependent on hydration.

◆ Consider your horse’s living situation. Is he often standing in manure, urine or mud? Is he turned out on lush pasture? Do his surroundings allow the opportunity to travel over surfaces that will naturally wear down the hoof? The best environment is clean and dry with varied surface options.

◆ How much exercise does your horse get? For optimal health, your horse needs to move! For many owners, this requires a commitment to provide more exercise.

How Long Will It Take for a Horse to Stay Barefoot?

Owners commonly ask, “How long will it take until I can ride my horse without shoes?” and, “Will my horse be sore?”

Hooves are just as individual as the horses standing on them, but you should expect an adjustment period when transitioning out of shoes.

“The foot needs to have stability, and a lot of horses coming out of traditional shoeing with rigid horseshoes don’t have stability,” says La Pierre.

The foot’s internal and external structures must become healthy and strong enough to be barefoot all the time. The time it takes to transition to shoeless depends on:

◆ The horse owner’s commitment;

◆ The current health of the horse’s feet, including any damage and weakness;

◆ The horse’s environment;

◆ Having an experienced hoof care professional able to trim the horse correctly.

If you’ve been told your horse has “bad” feet, you may think he’s destined to stay in shoes forever. Not necessarily.

La Pierre finds these are often the horses that most benefit from transitioning to shoeless. Rehabbing their feet will be a greater challenge, but if you’re willing to invest the time, your horse’s feet can improve dramatically.

Finding the Right Care for a Barefoot Horse

For a horse to successfully transition to barefoot, he needs a balanced trim—one that allows the foot to flex and function correctly.

It’s possible the farrier you’re currently using could transition your horse out of shoes if they have a good understanding of foot function and anatomy.

First, ask which of the three “barefoot models” your farrier subscribes to:

◆ Wild hoof model
◆ Conventional model
◆ Alternative model (such as HPT Balance Method)

“The foot has to deal with force; the wild horse is smaller and doesn’t carry a rider, so it’s never subjected to the force of the domesticated horse,” says La Pierre, who finds owners have the most success with alternative or conventional models.

He emphasizes that the most important aspect of trimming is that all structures of the hoof are balanced.

“When you’re looking to transition to barefoot, it’s not just about the trim,” says La Pierre. “Ask yourself: Can this person advise me on the guidance of returning health to the structures that are lacking in my horse’s feet?”

Making the Transition

Going barefoot is not just about pulling a horse’s shoes. Transitioning to shoeless isn’t an overnight solution, and it shouldn’t be done to save money on shoeing.

Once you have a hoof care professional ready to help your horse move out of shoes, they can evaluate your horse’s foot structures and develop a plan if improvement is needed to make the feet stronger and healthier.

Alternative hoof wear may be useful during transition. This includes hoof boots or a temporary covering like Perfect HoofWear, a non-cast flexible hoof wrap that provides stability and protection.

Despite their owners’ best efforts, some horses aren’t physically able to go 100 percent barefoot. Reasons include:

◆ Poor foot conformation due to genetics;
◆ One or more structures of the foot is too weak to handle being barefoot;
◆ Horses with chronically unstable feet, such as those diagnosed with chronic founder;
◆ Horses in high-intensity work (heavy jumping, extremely rocky terrain, et cetera) when discipline demands exceed the ability of the bare hoof to withstand the force involved.

First-Hand Experience

Cris Ann Bybee of Ely, Nev., has been an active trail rider for decades in some of the West’s most rugged terrain, yet all three of her horses are barefoot.

Her 15-year-old Quarter Horse gelding had been in shoes since he was young when she bought him two years ago.

“I had my vet come out and do X-rays to be sure there were no bone issues,” says Bybee. “Once that was clear, I knew the rest was fixable. I did put him in Perfect HoofWear because he was sore coming out of shoes. That helped a lot and his feet got better and better.”

Bybee said it took about four trim cycles, about four months in this case, for her gelding to be comfortable barefoot.

She still brings along her Easyboots when riding in the mountains where trails are rocky.

“In the West, where it’s so hard and dry, this is just added protection,” she says.

Bybee has transitioned almost 50 horses from shod to full-time barefoot since becoming a DAEP (Diploma in Applied Equine Podiatry) in 2008. For her horse clients that simply don’t meet the AEP criteria for full time barefoot for a variety of reasons, Bybee practices AEP’s Golden Rule of “do no harm,” thus recommending the HPT Balance Method and Perfect HoofWear during their off season and then Perfect HoofWear, boots or shoes while the horse is performing in its discipline.

This article about keeping your horse barefoot appeared in the October 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Keeping Your Horse Barefoot appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Flies love to land on horses’ lower legs, and even the most diligent fly spray regimen can’t always prevent stomping-related cracked and chipped hooves or loose and lost shoes. There is more at stake than gallons of fly spray and dust clouds in the paddock. Are you ready to stop the stomp and help your horse?

That symphony of stomps you hear as you approach your horse’s pasture can be an ominous warning sign of hoof problems to come. If you start to see hoof health deteriorate as summer progresses, you may soon be facing increased farrier bills and even a horse that need time off.

Be a Keen Observer

What’s a horse owner to do? First, make a plan—but make it early in the summer, before the flies take over.

The first step is to understand that the sound of a horse stomping the ground may mean different things, and you must be dedicated to checking your horse several times a day.

Stomping at flies is a normal reaction for horses when flies buzz around and land on lower legs. But a horse will also stomp the ground if he has unearthed a wasp’s nest or biting-ant hill in the ground; he may need your help, especially in a small pen.

Likewise, a horse may be nervously pawing the ground, not stomping. If you hear the sound of stomping when you shouldn’t, don’t assume that your horse is reacting to flies. Always investigate unusual sounds coming from a pen or pasture.

Next, learn what is “normal” for flies in your area and on your farm. Some areas cycle through different types and densities of flies over the course of the summer.

Flies may bother horses more or less at different times of the day, or in different weather conditions. Make notes about what you notice about the flies around your horse and around your barn, in general. If your horse prefers a certain part of a paddock, it may be because there are fewer flies or the ground is softer and pounding isn’t so jarring.

If your horse is sensitive to biting flies, have topical astringents and healing ointments on hand to dab broken skin and welts. Exposed wounds on the lower legs will attract even more flies. Be prepared to call your vet if sudden swelling occurs.

Learn all you can about horse behavior in the pasture. Horses can become habitual stompers, and tales are told of fly-weary horses who kept on stomping even on windy days when no flies bothered their legs.

Fly Stomping Causes Problems for Feet

Fly stomping can wreak havoc on hooves. Shod horses may experience raised clinches, a loosening of the nails’ grip on the hoof wall. The clinches may suddenly feel rough to the touch.

Ragged clinches may cause cuts and scrapes on the hands and thighs of riders and grooms who pick up hooves for cleaning, and rip or catch on an expensive pair of breeches. They’re another good reason to wear long pants around horses in the summer.

Loose shoes are a special danger when horses are shod with clips. Clips prevent shoes from shifting, but a horse can step down on a loose shoe’s clip and damage his hoof wall or sole. A shoe that comes completely off is a danger to all the horses in a pasture, since any of them can step on its exposed nails or protruding clips.

Frayed “potato chip” feet are common in the summer and worsen as fall approaches. Stomping at flies may make brittle hoof walls worse.

Superficial wall cracks are also common in stomping horses, but a crack that penetrates the wall requires the attention of a farrier. It may worsen over the course of the summer if the horse is stomping repeatedly.

Notify your farrier if you see problems developing so they can be treated before resulting in lameness or requiring special shoeing.

Fighting Off Flies

Horses have their pet peeves. One hates wearing leg wraps. Another fears the sound of sprays and won’t stand still for application. Learn each horse’s fly-related idiosyncrasies, inform everyone who cares for the horse, and find workarounds so every horse has as ideal protection from flies as possible to prevent fly stomping.

What’s in your fly spray? Respect anyone around your barn—whether horse or human—who may be sensitive to fly-control chemicals.

Know how much and how often products should be used. Your paddock fly-control practices should suit the severity of your problem, your horse’s turnout schedule, and your environmental priorities.

10-Step Plan to Eliminate Foot Problems Related to Fly Stomping

1. Think ahead. Keep a calendar and mark when the flies start appearing, what times of day they are the worst, and dates when you notice different types and densities of flies and mosquitoes. Also mark days for manure removal. Likewise, make note of weather, and notice paddock areas that have more or fewer stomping horses.

2. Check each foot on your horse before and after turnout. Look for loose or sprung clinches, bent or gaping shoes, and traces of dried blood that indicate stomp-related skin damage. Examine the insides of legs and pasterns.

3. Try using fly boots. If using repellent, too, apply to both the inside and the outside of the leg from the knee or hock down.

4. Don’t turn out horses near manure piles in summer. Remember that flies love manure, so a horse’s feet and lower legs are already often in close range for a fly. Be diligent about picking out your paddocks so you can deprive flies of the manure they seek.

5. Walk your pastures and look for lost shoes. If you find one, note the location and date found and the name of the horse, if known. Check that horse for hoof damage. Your farrier may be able to re-use the found shoe if it’s in good shape.

6. Quickly address shoes that are partially detached. First, call your farrier. You may be instructed to secure the shoe with duct tape or cover the entire foot with Vetrap and keep the horse in a stall until it can be fixed.

7. Learn to remove a loose or bent shoe. If you’re unsure how to do this, purchase a basic set of farrier tools and ask your farrier to teach you. Store the tools in a clean, dry place and don’t use them for anything but horseshoes.

8. Have your horse on a regular trimming or shoeing schedule. Six weeks is normal, but some horses may need shorter intervals, especially in summer. Don’t be tempted to skip or reschedule an appointment in the summer. Overgrown feet and worn shoes that are left on too long put a horse at risk.

9. Not stomping may be a problem, too. Senior horses, laminitics, or ringbone sufferers will especially appreciate diligent lower-leg fly defense. Is there a horse that’s not stomping at the flies, even though he’s in the same paddock with horses who are? It’s possible that the horse is in pain and doesn’t want to slam a sore foot onto the ground.

10. Stomping feet may be only part of the problem. Make sure your horse is up to date on vaccinations for insect-related diseases. A variety of serious infectious horse diseases are carried by horse flies and mosquitoes.

Flies are a fact of life around horses in the summer. They are a nuisance, but they can also cause problems that will gradually compromise a horse’s wellbeing. Horses instinctively stomp their feet when they sense flies.

Your horse will thank you for stopping the stomp before his hooves are damaged.

This article about fly stomping affecting hooves appeared in the July 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Hoof Problems Caused by Fly Stomping appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

There’s no denying some horses have lucked out in the genetic lottery with indestructible feet. But if your horse isn’t one of these and struggles to grow a good hoof in spite of regular trims, a good exercise program and a sparklingly clean, dry stall, there may be more you can do, starting with looking into the nutrients that grow healthy feet from the inside out. However, since a horse’s hooves only grow about 1/3 of an inch per month, it can take up to a year to see if nutrition changes are helping hoof health.

The first place to focus is on simple nutrients, such as energy (calories). An underweight horse must direct his energy to the most vital organs, so hooves and coat can suffer as a result. An obese horse is at higher risk of laminitis, which is very destructive to feet in both the short and long term.

There are dozens of micronutrients present in a horse’s diet. It’s best not to fiddle with them except under the guidance of an equine nutritionist, as imbalance and excess can cause more problems than they solve. For most horse owners, feeding good-quality hay (or pasture) with a concentrate or ration balancer formulated specifically for horses and fed per label directions is the safest way to balance vitamin, mineral and protein input.

If you are curious to learn more about how nutrition can help contribute to hoof health and how, focusing on specific nutrients, then read on.

Macronutrients

Fat: Fat creates a barrier to keep fungi and bacteria from entering the hoof horn. Given a gradual adjustment period, horses do very well with supplementary fat or oil in the diet, and it’s also a good way to put weight on hard keepers without increasing dietary sugar or starch.

Protein: Protein is made up of 20 building blocks called amino acids. “Essential” amino acids are those your horse cannot produce and must get from his diet. If he is missing one or more essential amino acids, he can’t make full use of the protein in his diet, which is used to make muscle, hair, and hoof cells.

The first limiting amino acid is lysine, followed by methionine and then threonine. This means that if deficient in lysine, a horse can’t use any more methionine. And if he has enough lysine but insufficient methionine, he can’t use more threonine, et cetera.

Signs of essential amino acid deficiencies can include joint, ligament and tendon breakdown (lysine); cracking, crumbling hooves and poor hair coat (methionine); and poor body condition, poor topline muscling and lack of energy (threonine).

But this doesn’t mean you should dump tons of extra protein into your horse’s diet. That can be hard on the kidneys for horses with decreased kidney function or insufficient water intake. Plus, even a healthy horse will just excrete whatever is not needed in what we like to call “expensive urine.” When shopping for supplemental protein, always check that it includes the first three limiting amino acids.

Vitamins

Biotin (vitamin B7): One of the more well-studied nutrients for hoof health, biotin is thought to help enhance hoof growth rate and hoof wall quality. Biotin contains sulfur, which strengthens the bond between collagen strands in the hoof wall.

Ten to 30 mg per day for horses with poor hooves despite a balanced diet is not harmful, and in case of a deficiency could help improve feet. B vitamins are water-soluble, and thus safe to feed since excess is excreted in urine.

If your horse grazes, keep in mind that this nutrient is already naturally occurring in pasture grass.

Vitamin C: This antioxidant is important for collagen synthesis. However, unlike humans, a normal healthy horse produces an enzyme within the liver that can convert glucose to vitamin C, and thus does not need additional dietary supplementation.

Minerals

Calcium and phosphorous: Calcium is necessary for attachment of cells to the hoof wall. However, nutritionists keep a careful eye on the calcium-to-phosphorous ratio since excess phosphorus blocks the absorption of calcium.

Copper and zinc: Both of these minerals support hoof growth and strength and are frequently seen in hoof supplements. Zinc in particular plays a role in keratinizing the hoof; however, too much zinc compromises copper and iron metabolism. Yet another reason to be very careful with adding dashes of this and that to your horse’s diet!

Selenium and vitamin E: These important antioxidants can be found in some hoof supplements, but extreme care should be taken. Too much selenium, in particular, can be quite toxic. If you are worried about a deficiency, have your hay tested for adequate selenium levels first, as these will depend on the levels in the soil in which the hay was grown.

This article about hoof health nutrition appeared in the April 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Nutrition for Hoof Health appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“There is more blood supply to the horse’s feet than to his brain,” says Raul J. Bras, DVM, a veterinarian and Certified Journeyman Farrier in the podiatry department at Rood and Riddle Equine Hospital in Lexington, Ky. “The hooves are vital living structures that must be taken care of. Think of the hoof as another organ in the horse’s body.”

Both barefoot and shod horses can develop hoof cracks. Small hoof cracks and chipping around the bottom edges is not unusual in a barefoot hoof as it grows, and the farrier can generally trim these cracks away.

Shod horses can develop hoof cracks around the nails if they aren’t placed properly. When a shod horse ends up with a deep crack in the hoof, this may be more related to load-bearing issues than hoof growth. Hoof cracks shouldn’t be ignored, because problems can develop when the hoof’s integrity is compromised.

“Horse hoof cracks can open the barrier of the hoof capsule and allow bacteria in,” notes Bras. “You can end up with a secondary problem if opportunistic bacteria enter, and then you have an infection.”

Seeking the Cause for Horse Hoof Cracks

The reason behind a hoof crack isn’t always straightforward.

“Horse hoof cracks can be secondary to something else,” says Bras, who often sees cracks related to limb conformation. “Realistically, there is not a perfect horse, but saying that hoof cracks are due to hereditary issues is a cop out, because there are other factors besides conformation and genetics.”

Horse hoof cracks reflect the quality of the hoof, which is influenced by a number of factors, including:

◆ Hoof care schedule
◆ Footing and environment
◆ Weather
◆ Nutrition

“Superficial horse hoof cracks are usually related to weather and environment,” says Bras.

The horse’s feet tend to mirror his environment. When it’s overly wet, the hoof can absorb too much moisture, which makes it soft and more vulnerable to bruising, abscesses and bacterial infection. A hoof that is overly dry becomes hard and brittle, so it loses flexibility, which can allow the wall to chip or break around the edges, or if the horse is shod, for nails to loosen.

Failure to maintain a regular hoof care schedule is often the cause of cracks as hooves get too long. All horses need regular hoof care year-round, even if they aren’t being used or are barefoot.

When the horse hoof is allowed to grow excessively, it will flare out around the bottom, and the natural shape will be distorted, allowing it to crack more easily.

“If you give the horse a break without hoof care for months, you get into flares, distortion, cracks and hoof wall separations,” says Bras. “A crack that starts at the bottom of the foot and works its way up is usually related to flares or distortions.”

Don’t Overlook Nutrition

Bras points out that applying topical products to the hoof can change it to some extent, but hooves grow from the inside out, so nutrition should always be considered if a horse has poor hooves.

Horse hooves and hair require many of the same nutrients, so a horse with a dull, dry hair coat will likely have poor-quality hooves.

“If a horse is on a well-balanced diet, he should get all the requirements needed for the blood supply to provide nutrients to grow a healthy hoof capsule,” says Bras. “Horses do metabolize nutrients differently, however. Some horses, even with a good diet, have poor-quality feet. In these cases, you might need a hair sample analysis to find out if the horse has a specific nutrient deficiency that needs to be addressed.”

When Horse Hoof Cracks Cause Concern

You should contact your farrier and veterinarian any time significant change occurs in a hoof or if the horse shows signs of lameness. Certain types of horse hoof cracks are cause for concern and require prompt attention from your farrier, and in some cases, your veterinarian, as well. These include:

◆ A horizontal crack parallel to the hairline
◆ Any horse hoof crack that involves bleeding
◆ A hoof crack that involves separation at the hairline
◆ If there is movement or separation in the hoof on one or both sides of a crack
◆ A vertical horse hoof crack in the rear portion of the hoof extending down from the coronary band (see below)
◆ A horizontal crack in the hoof that runs parallel to the hairline is often related to an injury or abscess. This type of crack is typically an interruption of normal growth extending down from the coronary band.A deep horse hoof crack will bleed; superficial cracks won’t. Bleeding from a hoof crack indicates that internal structures of the hoof are involved. This kind of crack always requires veterinary attention, whether or not the horse is lame.

If you see separation at the hairline, Bras explains this indicates that the integrity of the hoof capsule is compromised.

“This can be a weak spot that may eventually become a horizontal crack that can allow opportunistic bacteria to enter,” he notes. “If the horse hoof crack continues to grow, it will get to the load-bearing surface of the hoof, and the hoof can break.”

If you can see movement in the hoof on one or both sides of a crack, this is serious, as it means the hoof capsule has sustained significant compromise.

When a barefoot horse develops a hoof crack in the middle of the toe at the front of the hoof, this can open the door for opportunistic bacteria and potentially lead to infection, such as white line disease. In addition to trimming the area specifically to address the toe crack, your farrier will likely recommend a topical product to kill bacteria.

Quarter Cracks in Horse Hooves

Located in the back quadrant of the horse hoof, a quarter horse hoof crack is a vertical crack that originates at the coronary band and extends downward. This type of crack starts internally and only becomes visible when it “pops.” The horse may or may not be lame.

“Quarter cracks don’t always bleed, and every bleeding quarter crack doesn’t always create lameness,” says Bras. “If you do have a bleeding quarter crack, you should always be concerned, because internal structures are involved, even if the horse is not lame.” He notes that quarter cracks are usually related to load-bearing and how the horse moves.

This is a serious type of horse hoof crack that cannot be ignored, as it reduces the load-bearing surface of the hoof. Your farrier and veterinarian should be involved in treatment, which may require wire lacing and/or a patch or glue to stabilize the crack. A therapeutic shoe, such as a bar shoe, may also be needed to take pressure off the section of hoof below the crack.

Hoof Care Schedule

Your first line of defense against horse hoof cracks is regular attention by a hoof-care professional. Because your farrier typically comes every four to six weeks, he or she should note any significant changes in the feet and should mention if your veterinarian should also be consulted.

“The farrier looks at things from the outside in, while the veterinarian is looking at it from the inside out, thinking of interior structure problems in the hoof that may reveal outer signs, like cracks,” says Bras. “A farrier and a veterinarian provide very different services, but with you as the horse’s owner, it’s a team of three.”

Many owners ask how often their horses’ hooves require trimming or shoeing, but there is no black-and-white answer to this question.

“If the horse grows a lot of foot, he likely needs care every four weeks; with a horse that doesn’t grow much foot, every four weeks is probably too often,” says Bras.

Every horse is an individual and the hoof care schedule must be adjusted to fit each horse. The time between trimming or shoeing should be short enough that your horse’s hooves haven’t started to distort in shape by flaring, chipping or cracking before the next farrier visit.

Consult with your farrier to determine the best schedule, stick with it, and keep a close eye on your horse’s hooves in between visits. And if you need help for a hoof crack or other issue, then don’t hesitate to get advice or have the farrier out for an extra visit.

This article about caring for horse hoof cracks appeared in the June 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Horse Hoof Crack Rundown appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Thumbs up: Supporting strong, healthy hooves all year round

“No hoof, no horse” is a phrase that all horse owners can agree on. Your horse’s hooves are his foundation, so keeping them healthy and strong is essential no matter what time of year it is. Along with regular professional maintenance, plenty of exercise and other management, proper nutrition and healthy circulation play vital roles in hoof health. Daily support from key ingredients is a smart way to help ensure your horse is always ready to step up to the challenge.

Thumbs Down: Leaving your horse’s hoof health out to pasture

While your horse’s hoof growth may slow down during the winter, it doesn’t stop completely. That means that your horse’s hoof support shouldn’t stop, either. Because hooves grow at an average rate of ¼” per month, the growth that you see at the coronary band now is the hoof that will be supporting your horse next summer.

Whether your horse is barefoot or shod, working with a knowledgeable hoof care professional is key to ensuring your horse maintains healthy, well-balanced hooves. Along with setting up a regular hoof maintenance schedule and sticking to it, there are other things you can do this season to help your horse put his best foot forward now and in the future. To learn how to battle fall and winter hoof health challenges from the inside and outside, check out SmartPak’s blog.

The post September SmartPak SmartTip of the Month: Keep Your Horse’s Hooves Healthy appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The earliest horses were tiny woodland creatures, the size of a housecat or small dog. They had a springy back and (usually) four toes in the front and three toes in the back. Over millions of years, as the horse grew in power and strength, those toes slowly disappeared. This left one middle digit—the hoof.

Today, only the one-toed horse remains. It’s likely that the question of how the hoof evolved has plagued scientists since the moment the first fossil of a three-toed horse was found. Most agree that the hoof was an adaptation that promoted survival by allowing horses greater speed in order to evade predators. It makes sense: non-aggressive, herbivorous animals make ideal prey.

But a recent study published in Frontiers in Ecology and Evolution begs to differ. After looking long and hard at fossil records and prior research, the authors say that though horses are able to pick up speed when needed, their physiology tells a different story: Horses, they posit, are more suited to trotting—not in retreat—but in pursuit of food.

Mechanics of the Leg

While most prior work has focused directly on the hoof, this study took a wider view by looking at the entire leg of the horse. While the three-toed horse had a similar leg makeup as the hoofed horse, it was really the hoofed horse that has an optimal leg in a mechanical sense.

The interior of the hoofed horse leg is an intricate conglomeration of ligaments, tendons, and bones that work in synchrony to create elastic energy that is stored and released as the horse propels forward. Aptly named the “spring leg,” the effortless strength of the horse’s leg is the real source of its incredible power.

The fetlock joint, as it is winched downward by force when the horse moves, acts like a rubber band or a spring when released. The fetlock is incredibly flexible, capable of stretching down to 90 degrees from vertical. This construction, note the researchers, is the real key to the survival of the horse.

Not only does it allow for tremendous power, but it’s also extremely efficient because the snapping back action, like that of a bow and arrow, is a passive movement that requires less metabolic stores of energy.

The authors assert that though energy is saved this way at all gaits, it is at the trot that the horse is most efficient—leading them to solidify their hypothesis that horses are well-equipped to spend most of their time trotting across long distances in search of grazing lands.

Working with the Back

In addition, the anatomy of the horse’s back confirms this conclusion. By this time period, the horse had evolved to have a shorter, firmer, and less flexible back. Flexibility in the back would also provide elastic energy and is necessary when horses run at high speeds, as the back end of the horse curves under to take long strides.

But a less-flexible back, when combined with more spring-like legs, would not hinder the more vertical movement seen when a horse is trotting. The authors evidence this by the fact that horses in the wild trot naturally across grassland, endurance riders often utilize the trot, and even the U.S. Cavalry preferred the trot as a form of efficient travel.

It is convincing that an energy efficient leg and a sturdier back would enable the horse the required endurance that would be necessary to search for food. But what was confounding for the researchers is that the three-toed horse also had a spring leg, and even though it was less developed, the question remained, why did the hoofed horse eventually become the sole survivor while the three-toed horse became extinct?

Changing Climate

The researchers next looked at climate. The one-toed horse first appeared in North America approximately 15 million years ago during the late Miocene era. This was a time of warm, moist temperate weather in which three-toed horses and hoofed horses both thrived and lived alongside each other.

The landscape was primarily woodlands, which provided ample food sources for a variety of horse species. Three-toed horses were thought to have an advantage in muddy footing, with their extra toes providing them better balance and maneuverability. At this point, hoofed horses were just a small part of a larger, richly diverse group of horses—most of which remained three-toed.

Over the next 10 million years, the three-toed horse began to decrease in size and diversity as significant weather changes occurred. The climate became drier, colder, and less hospitable. As arid grasslands replaced fertile woodland, three-toed horses found their preferred habitat continually shrinking to the southern regions.

One-toed horses, with that stronger, more efficient leg, had a much wider territory to choose from, and their foraging behavior, which prioritized the more prevalent grasses, followed suit. By 1 million years ago, only hoofed horses remained as all other horse species gradually disappeared.

The authors of this study rest on the conclusion that the hoofed horse evolved not because the single hoof had any particular advantage over the three-toed horse, but because climate change created an environment that allowed this horse, with its already built-in efficiency of locomotion, to take advantage of a larger range of foraging.

Their perspective is that the hoof, along with the superior leg, encouraged the hoofed horse to travel long distances. This ability to roam and rely on grass as a food source inevitably helped them survive while others went extinct.

In the author’s own words, “Equus was fundamentally a lucky genus in the grand scheme of equid evolution.”

Source: www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fevo.2019.00119/full

This article originally appeared in the July 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Evolution of the Hoof appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.