The Goal of Softness

Softness starts with your horse’s mouth and chin, through his neck, rib cage, and hindquarters—his whole body. Some riders confuse softness with achieving a “headset,” where the horse holds its head in the desired position.

“It’s beyond headset—it’s more a willing behavior to do the task you’re asking for,” says Baldus. “Some horses naturally have a neck that comes out a little bit lower, [and] they’re comfortable being lower-headed due to their style or their pedigree. Other horses with a different pedigree or style might carry their head a little bit higher and have a higher-headed look. That doesn’t mean that the horse is stiffer, it just means that he has conformation that puts his head higher.”

A horse with higher-headed conformation can still be soft with his head and neck, according to Baldus. This type of horse can still be flexed at the poll, willingly guided and soft—just with his head coming out of his neck a bit higher.

If a horse is high-headed and tense, he might be anxious or protecting himself from reins that are pulled on too firmly.

“When a horse has his head way up and his neck tight, his shoulders are heavy and he’s hitting the ground hard while he moves,” says Baldus. “His whole body is stiff, rigid and tight.”

In contrast, a soft horse has a lightness of step and movement regardless of gait or maneuver.

“He’s going to have a soft and light step, and that’s going to help the horse move better,” he says. “And that’s true whether working a cow, on the trail, just riding down the road, or riding for pleasure around your ranch. A horse that is lighter and moves with more fluidity is going to be smoother and softer to ride.”

Preparation

The bit you choose to use while working on softness with your horse is important. Baldus says that when he’s first starting to train a horse—usually in the first 30 days of riding—he’ll use a loping hackamore to work on lateral softness. He will next put the horse in some variation of a snaffle bit.

“As I transition to a snaffle, some horses are very light and soft and go in a smooth O-ring,” he says. “Others need a bit more, maybe a little twist to the mouthpiece, or even a short shank bridle to help him understand how to soften to the bridle.”

No matter what bit you use, your hands are the most important piece of the puzzle.

Move Slow and Soft

Baldus says the way you ask your horse to move is key.

“Every day when I get on, every ride, I remind myself to slow my hands down and ask [for a response] as slow and soft as possible,” he says.

This starts with asking the horse to tip his nose to the right, for example. You’ll do this every time you ride after your horse has warmed up.

“I ask myself how slowly and how smoothly I can pick this rein up and ask this horse to tip his nose to the right,” says Baldus. “If I ask slowly and methodically, in a sequence of half a pound of pressure, 1 pound of pressure, 2 pounds, 3 pounds, and so on over a 10-second time period, that horse has a chance to respond to a soft, light pressure before I increase to more pressure. By building the habit of keeping your hand slow, the horse will start to respond to 1 or 2 pounds.”

Build this habit into everything you do with your hands and legs while riding—whether you have on a loping hackamore or a spade bit on a finished bridle horse. Focus on keeping your hands as slow and consistent as possible.

The Release of Pressure

You’ll also want to focus on the release of pressure.

“Your horse is going to learn the most from the release of pressure,” says Baldus. “The moment he starts to soften in the direction I want with his head, neck or shoulders, I start to release the pressure.”

Look for a place to reward your horse, even just for trying, then pick up and ask again. He will probably get softer faster, according to Baldus.

The Sequence of Achieving Softness

Working from the front to the back of the horse, Baldus asks for softness.

“I start with his nose, and I’m just bending his nose laterally, let’s say with my left hand,” he says. “I’m tipping my left hand toward my left pocket and asking the horse to give his nose to the left.”

Baldus notes that he’s not clucking or using his legs for this step—he’s asking the horse to stand still and stay relaxed, flexing his nose toward the rein cue.

“Once he stands still and gives his nose to the left, then I release that pressure,” he says. “Then I will pick up the rein and ask again in another 10 seconds.”

Your horse is not going to respond perfectly right away—you’re looking for small steps, building habits that will stay with the horse. Baldus says it may take a horse two weeks to understand if he’s never done it before.

Vertical Flexion

The drills Baldus uses most often are asking for lateral bend and flexion, asking the horse to soften to the left and right, and then adding forward motion as he asks for a slight vertical flexion. At this point, he’s using his legs as an additional cue.

“When I’ve got the horse going at a walk, I just tip his nose to the left and to the right as we’re progressing into vertical flexion,” he says. “I’m asking the nose to move toward his chest and soften at the poll; I’m using my legs to squeeze and tell him to keep going forward. That’s the difference between your reins being a ‘whoa and stop’ cue and your reins being a ‘soften and flex at the poll’ cue.”

The moment you feel flexion or softening in the horse’s poll, release your reins—Baldus says this is a “micro release” of half an inch as a reward. Your horse may push his nose back out, and that’s OK.

“You’re just going to pick him up again and say, ‘Hey, let’s not root our nose out; when I pick my hands up, flex at the poll and soften your chin toward your chest,’” Baldus explains. “When [the horse complies], I start to release my hands again. I’m teaching him to look for the release of pressure, and he’ll find it by flexing at the poll and lowering his neck a little bit.”

Baldus works on these moves at a walk, and once the horse is solid, he’ll move to a trot, and eventually a lope and gallop on a finished horse.

Body Softness

Baldus teaches the horse to shoulder-yield next while walking in a circle. Traveling to the left, he’ll close his left leg from his calf to his heel right behind the front cinch to teach the horse to move away from pressure.

“His head and neck stay the same, and his body stays on the same arc of the 10-foot-circle, but now I’m teaching him to cross his left front leg over his right front leg as he makes the shoulder move,” says Baldus. “This helps when a horse drops his shoulder to the inside. The more control you’re going to have over the circle, the more you can control your horse’s feet and softness, and the better his patterns are going to be.”

Baldus will also ask the horse to step his hindquarters to the outside of a circle, almost like a forehand pivot, where the hind end is moving around the front end.

Once the front end and back end can be moved in response to your cues, you’ll move on to the sidepass, where you ask the horse to move his front and hind end laterally at the same time.

“Think about that softness in your horse’s head, neck and shoulders, all the way through his body to his hindquarters,” Baldus explains.

These skills translate to maneuvers such as opening and closing a gate, or sidepassing to pick up a slicker off of a fence in a trail class.

“The sidepass is another way to gain body control and softness through your horse’s body with a single maneuver to focus on,” says Baldus.

Key Takeaway

Remember, if your horse is stiff and heavy on his feet, he did not get there overnight. It may take six months for a horse to become softer and lighter, and that’s OK.

“You’re always going to ask as softly as possible and release the pressure the first chance you get,” says Baldus. “Those habits are going to build, and your horse is going to learn to carry himself in a way that’s flexed at the poll and willing and soft through his body. Then you’re going to be more comfortable on a trail ride. You’re going to have more fun, whether it’s in the show pen, working a cow, or on the barrels, because your horse is a softer, more willing partner.”

Meet the Trainer Ben Baldus has been training and showing horses since he was 12 years old. He trains horses for reining, reined cow horse, and ranch versatility, and has earned championship titles at major events with the National Reining Horse Association, National Reined Cow Horse Association, Ranch Horse Association of America, and American Quarter Horse Association. He and his wife, Cameron, operate Baldus Horsemanship in Gainesville, Texas.

Further Reading
◆ Brush Up on Your Riding Aids
◆ Achieve the Correct Timing of Riding Aids
◆ Common Horse Training Mistakes

This article about training your horse for softness appeared in the June 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Your Horse’s Softness appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Humans have built an entire language with horses upon the concept that the answer to pressure is to give, so we must tune in and notice when they are giving—or at least trying to. This smooths the communication between horse and rider by providing the horse’s reward—the release of pressure—in sync with his efforts to respond to our cues.

If the timing of the release continues to be precise and in unison (or at least in quick succession) with the effort, then the horse’s responses will happen more and more readily.

The Ultimate Goal of Riding Aids

The most obvious examples of this are while riding. You use leg pressure to ask your horse to move forward, then release it when he walks off. You use rein pressure to ask your horse to slow down or stop, then release it when he reaches the desired speed.

Riders at the top of every discipline make their sport look effortless due to seamless communication, which is all properly timed pressure and release at the micro level. Their timing of riding aids has been so accurate for so long that their horse has become a finely tuned instrument, ready to listen to the smallest suggestion, therefore any adjustments are nearly invisible.

Improving Response

When it comes to speaking the language of pressure and release, there are plenty of opportunities to improve your communication and timing while handling your horse on the ground as you work with him in daily interactions.

Practice noticing how much pressure from the halter and lead rope it takes to get a reaction from your horse, walking forward and then halting. See if you can observe that first moment he rocks forward to give to the pressure, and soften as quickly as you can.

Notice how as your timing improves, so does your horse’s response. The same can be done in the wash rack when asking your horse to step to the side to give you more space. Begin with light pressure, and find the exact moment that your horse leans away from it.

Be Aware of the Pressure Level

Although most riders need to bring more awareness to noting exactly when their horse begins to move forward off the leg or slow down in response to the rein, they are at least aware of the pressure they are applying.

However, there are many other daily scenarios where you may be unaware of the pressure you are applying, therefore asking a question that has no answer and that your horse must learn to ignore. This leads to your horse also ignoring aids that you did intend to give.

For example, many riders sit heavily in the saddle without enough weight in their legs and stirrups, which creates pressure from the seat, especially when that becomes a driving and pumping seat in an unorganized effort to ask the horse to move forward. With all that seat pressure as a distraction, it’s no surprise that the horse becomes dull to leg pressure.

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It’s also important to note that use of the voice counts as pressure, too. Just like other aids, vocal cues begin to lose meaning to horses when used without the direct reward of release of pressure. If a cluck is supposed to mean trot, then you should stop clucking when the horse steps into a trot.

Releasing Tension

If pressure and release is the language of horses, then tension (in the horse or rider) is the main obstruction to the use of that language.

Many riders begin applying pressure when all the horse truly needs is some time to think and process.

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A horse may start out with his ears pricked, heart rate up, snorting, or flight behavior, but as he comes around to the idea that he’s most likely not in danger, he will start to show some signs that he’s releasing his tension and ready for you to apply some pressure and ask questions again. These signs include licking, chewing, blinking, ear flicking, stretching, and giving a neck or body shake.

This is when you can ask your horse to move closer to whatever was causing his concern. When signs of tension return, take all the pressure off so he can focus on regulating himself again.

Key Takeaway

Of course, there are moments when you will miss the timing of when to give a release, but luckily horses are forgiving creatures. If you improve your timing of riding aids and work to communicate more clearly, your horse will improve as well. Everybody wins!

This article about riding aids appeared in the April 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Part of what makes these horses so safe for beginners is that they “tune out” some of the aids that lower level riders give by accident, meaning that they won’t go cantering off if a rider’s leg accidentally slides back too far. Most of the riders mounted on these horses also do not have the education to be able to influence the horse to carry themselves correctly through their hind end, core, and topline. However, once a rider becomes more advanced, they will need their horse to be more responsive to aids given the first time, and properly use his body to perform more athletic movements.

In some cases, the horse may have lapsed in his training after being ridden by beginners or riders using unclear aids for an extended period of time. In any case, the remedy is to use exercises that engage the horse’s mind and body while giving clear and consistent aids.

How to Fix a Horse’s Responsiveness

The most important thing is always to have the horse traveling forward and straight. If a horse is crooked in his gaits and movements, this means that there is energy wasted traveling laterally that could be available to be funneled straight ahead if the crookedness were corrected.

Once the horse is straight, you can start asking for transitions from halt to walk. You will want to carry a short crop, and you may choose to carry a longer dressage whip or wear spurs (particularly during these initial stages of retraining), depending on the horse.

In the halt, make sure to begin with your legs hanging loose by the horse’s sides. While trying to get horses to go forward, we often tighten the muscles in our bottom, hips, and legs without realizing it. Draw up through your core so that your abdominal muscles support the upper half of your body, rather than sitting heavily in the saddle.

When your pelvis is following the horse’s motion in the walk (and later the canter), it should feel as though you are gliding across the saddle, rather than grinding into it.

Push your heels down and close your calves in a squeeze against the horse’s sides. If a sustained squeeze with moderate to strong pressure does not entice the horse to walk forward, add a kick. During the kick, your hips and bottom should remain loose, and your legs shouldn’t come more than 6 to 8 inches off of your horse’s sides.

If this still doesn’t elicit a response, tap the horse with a crop just behind your leg until he walks forward. As soon as there is any forward movement, the horse must be rewarded by taking the pressure off (stopping the tapping).

The halt-to-walk transition should be repeated until your horse is moving off from just the squeeze.

Correct Canter

Once your horse is recalibrated to the meaning of the leg squeeze, repeat the same exercise between the walk and trot and then halt and trot. Straightness should still be emphasized, using your seat bones to feel if the horse is pushing evenly with both hind legs.

All horses have their own natural rhythm that’s comfortable for them, then a rhythm that’s a little more forward and a little more work for the rider, but helps them to build fitness. That second rhythm is where you want to be working your horse.

After your horse is working through halt/walk/trot transitions in good rhythm and balance, the canter can be added. In the walk and trot, horses can get away with moving into the gait by dragging themselves forward from the shoulder, even though this is incorrect.

However, in the canter, it’s absolutely required that the horse engage his hind end and push off of his hocks, otherwise he will end up in a rushed trot rather than a canter. If any part of your work up to this point has been ineffective, it will show in the canter. Transitions should now include all three gaits plus the halt.

Additional Tips For Improving the Responsiveness of a Seemingly Lazy Horse

If a horse has been experiencing unclear or conflicting aids for a while, it may take some time to re-educate him fully.

In future training sessions, it will be valuable to add collection and extension of the gaits, turn on the haunches, 10- and 20-meter circles, and pole work. All of these exercises encourage and improve proper engagement of the hind end, building fitness and adding power to all three gaits.

Key Takeaway

It’s important to teach even beginner riders how to use their aids effectively and to expect a prompt reaction from their horse so that those nice, quiet schoolmasters don’t slip into bad habits. The same exercises that build strength in the horse will build the education of the next generation of riders. Correcting a “lazy” horse is as much the rider’s responsibility as it is the horse.

This article about improving a lazy horse’s responsiveness appeared in the January/February 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How to Improve a Lazy Horse’s Responsiveness appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Here, trainer Cody Crow helps you understand how horses learn that they can break gait if they choose—and why riders fall into the trap of constant pedaling. He’ll help you teach your horse to lope and keep loping until another cue is given. He also provides tips to help you sit back and drive your horse into the lope.

No Nagging

“If you constantly nag a child about cleaning their room but there’s no follow-through or consequence, they’ll soon learn they don’t have to clean their room,” says Crow. “It’s the same way for the horse. If you kiss to the horse and he doesn’t step into and stay in the lope, there must be a follow-through. If there isn’t a follow-through, you’re effectively training your horse to ignore you. He’ll take you up on the chance to ignore you if allowed. The horse may break down into the trot or just get hollow. Most horses will only work as hard as you ask them to. Make sure you’re following up.”

In the show pen, the judge wants to see a horse that is willingly guided. The horse should step into a transition with fluidity and a willing demeanor. Crow says that your horse’s willingness to lope freely will affect your performance scores for several transitions and maneuvers.

“If you see a rider who’s having to beg the horse to go forward, it’s not a very pretty picture,” Crow says. “Maybe a judge won’t minus all of the maneuvers, but he certainly isn’t going to plus the maneuvers. If a rider is having a discussion with the horse about just staying in the lope, there’s no chance she could have shown an extended lope. Then she won’t be able to show a transition to a collected lope. Also, if you’re begging your horse to stay in the lope, he can’t have the balance to show a good transition from the lope to the trot.”

Making the Change

“Horses that need to be pedaled all the time may never have been taught to move forward freely,” says Crow. “Horses can get dull and lazy when the rider allows that behavior. If a rider is timid or isn’t clear with the horse, it’s easy for him to just stop.”

Crow says he helps horses break the pedaling cycle by showing them that they can move out freely. He’ll ask the horse to lope and boost the speed to show the horse he can move out and will be expected to move at the speed requested.

First, Crow teaches the horse that there will be an audible cue before any follow through or consequence. He makes a kissing sound to ask for the lope, then uses his leg pressure to reinforce the sound. Once he’s loping, he kisses again to ask for more speed.

“The sound will be followed by my leg cues—with a little more outside leg cue to keep the horse moving forward,” he says. “When the horse learns a verbal cue before the leg cue, he learns that he needs to move on. The verbal cue was the ask, and the leg cue was the tell. If the horse still doesn’t respond, I’ll bump with my leg, but I won’t continue to bump. If I were to constantly bump, I’d desensitize the horse to my leg.”

If a horse has been ridden with constant leg cues, Crow suggests the rider carry a short crop.

“I teach riders to use a verbal cue first, then their legs, then a tap on the hindquarters (at the hip) will be a new cue that the horse isn’t desensitized to,” says Crow. “We aren’t talking about hitting the horse hard at all, just providing a new feeling and something the horse isn’t desensitized to. Usually it only takes one or two taps for the horse to understand that he should move off of the kiss sound and not wait for other aids.”

Loping Position

If you have to canter, push, canter, push on a horse to prevent him from breaking gait, you may have developed a habit you’ll need to break.

Crow says to make sure you’re sitting on your hips and using your legs. If you’ve become accustomed to begging the horse to go, you may have learned to lean forward to encourage him. This position actually moves your legs away from the horse. You don’t have the ability to use your leg aids as well as if you can sit back, drive and push the horse forward from your seat. Think of driving instead of leaning forward and taking the horse with you.

Riding a different horse can help you feel what you were doing and allow you to sit up and change your posture.

“Sometimes it’s helpful to get on a horse that will keep the lope so you can feel what it’s like to just ride,” advises Crow. “Many times, riders who have learned to bump every stride will lean forward so their legs aren’t in the place to drive. It’s important to learn to sit back and allow your legs to open and drive the horse with a long, relaxed leg.”

This article about breaking gait at the lope appeared in the March 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Keep Loping: Prevent Breaking Gait at the Lope appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

I’m a fan of the saying, “Your horse is doing his best with the information you provided.” It directs us to look at the signals we’re sending through our riding aids and to see whether we are being clear.

Often when we mean to ask for something from our horse and receive either no response or a “wrong” response, we assume our horse is being disobedient. Instead, we should investigate whether our aids could be more precise.

Leg Riding Aids

Because your leg is the foundation of your position and therefore where many of your key riding aids come from, we’ll start there. There are three uses for the leg: supporting, bracing and displacing.

The supporting leg is the one used most of the time, with your heel directly under your hip and your toe directly under your knee. It’s called the supporting leg because it’s supporting whatever is happening in the moment through pressure or lack thereof.

Pressure from both legs is a riding aid that tells your horse to go faster or maintain pace, depending on the amount of pressure. Pressure from one leg tells your horse to move away with his whole body, and lack of pressure allows your horse to slow down or stop.

A bracing leg is kicked out in front of the girth nearly onto the shoulder, and it prevents you from being pulled forward by your horse while executing a downward transition. There is no pressure against the horse’s side with a bracing leg.

A displacing leg comes about a hand-width or two behind the girth to activate your horse’s hind end. It’s most often used to pick up the canter, and should be used anytime engagement of the haunches is the goal.

Seat Riding Aids

Working our way up, we arrive at the seat. Your seat technically goes from mid-thigh to the bottom of your ribcage. Core strength is key to the use of your seat, as it helps to determine your pelvic placement.

A neutral pelvic angle gives you a few options based on the amount of pressure you place downward into your stirrups at any given moment. Less pressure in the stirrups allows for a full seat, and more pressure allows for a light seat.

Being in a full seat helps you rebalance or collect your horse, while being in a light seat allows your horse to move forward and cover the ground. A neutral pelvis is also used to help form the two-point position, which takes weight off the horse’s back while galloping or jumping.

A posterior pelvic tilt gives you a driving seat, which is used to urge the horse forward, particularly in spooky situations.

Hand Riding Aids

The last piece of the puzzle is your hands. They can communicate with your horse one of the five ways: open, direct, indirect, neck and pulley.

An opening rein is best for a green horse or rider, and opens out to the side with little to no backward pressure, encouraging the horse to follow the pressure to turn.

The direct rein pulls straight back toward your hip on the same side, and is used by intermediate and advanced riders for steering and all riders for slowing, stopping, or backing.

The indirect rein pulls back across the wither to your opposite hip. It helps lift the horse’s inside shoulder and rebalance him, especially when he is falling in.

The neck rein is most common in western riding, but it can be useful when paired with an opening rein, as it allows for excellent control of the horse’s shoulders while turning.

A pulley rein is used for emergencies. You pull up and back with one hand while the other is firmly planted in the withers in order to stop an out-of-control horse.

In this video from Ridely, Olympian and Chairman of Dressage4Kids Lendon Gray demonstrates the common errors some riders make when using the rein aids. She shares her tips for how to prevent these from happening and how to keep your hands still. Register for Ridely PRO to access 450+ other useful training videos.

Communicating with Your Horse

Now that you know all of the natural aids and their uses, you need to know how they pair or group together to allow clear communication with your equine partner. The leg, seat, and hand must all be sending the same message, or your horse will be confused.

For example, stopping aids include a bracing leg, neutral pelvis, and two direct reins. However, if your leg slips back toward the girth, your horse is being told to stop with your hands and to go with your leg.

Horses can only understand the aids that they’ve been trained to understand, no matter your intention. For this reason, we owe it to our horses to study up on the aids and apply them correctly in order to reduce confusion and improve the horse-human relationship.

This article about riding aids appeared in the July 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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